tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30203938179076784842024-03-05T04:12:47.378-07:00Railgap Esotericatools and techniques for taking over the worldRailgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.comBlogger361125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-60973199175839325772024-02-19T19:08:00.002-07:002024-02-19T19:08:14.629-07:00I been sick.<p> I still am sick.</p><p>Sometimes I go to work. <br />Sometimes I try to do dishes, or laundry, or clean house, or prepare food.<br />Sometimes I just sits.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-71502815101282671252024-01-03T08:06:00.008-07:002024-01-18T05:26:38.974-07:00video thing test<div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;"> <span style="font-size: medium;">This is a test print, intended to disclose how well the bed has been leveled. I print several nested squares, then measure their thickness in a few places with calipers. The outer square is enough for basic leveling, but if you compare it to several other squares you can check for curvature.<br /><br /> And yes, I am using automatic mesh bed leveling with a BLtouch probe.<br />If it seems that I am going to lengths on this, let me tell you: perfect bed leveling will eliminate one of the most common causes for poor first layer adhesion. <br /><br /> Mine is acceptable right now, but I won't be happy until the mesh display is near zeros everywhere.<br /></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Blogger will not let me flow the above text around the video no matter what I try. Weak. Sauce.</i></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /> <iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwY_98FObIxT-g6HiaMTh7B8PJh4xbGWBvntqty7f_FYcyIXsbgxtD6Y0VRW35GJ0FtGonPJZ96G_K5R2XWoA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span> <br /></div> <br /></div><div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiwmkBNdA3er6sV_ixbTW-Z60Em_5PxGrUfS974L5oH9kAPgtF4RdI-NQ4I95sa0pi1C_gOG7At-D27yVMCAyrLsAAcxYeg7YSvY6NQdovjXY66aAOD1lI5L33OxGL9TnSzQIZ-txCzmcz_h8_HKiZ9JCMza0AKGKMMRTcNhzBN3ldY5a7o9mYnQJF_Q4/s1280/IMG_2780.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiwmkBNdA3er6sV_ixbTW-Z60Em_5PxGrUfS974L5oH9kAPgtF4RdI-NQ4I95sa0pi1C_gOG7At-D27yVMCAyrLsAAcxYeg7YSvY6NQdovjXY66aAOD1lI5L33OxGL9TnSzQIZ-txCzmcz_h8_HKiZ9JCMza0AKGKMMRTcNhzBN3ldY5a7o9mYnQJF_Q4/s320/IMG_2780.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">Mein Gott in Himmel!! Do you realize what this MEANS??<br /><br />It means my printer is back online, that's what it means. ;)<br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />I mean... it prints... not to say how well. It is far from where it can and should be, with blebs on the underside of the kodama's curved head, and such-like. I just need to do flow and temp towers with this filament. I expect I was running it too hot, TBH. Also retract.<br /><br /> A lot of print parameters are different now with a new, higher-wattage hotend, a new heat break and heatsink, everything but the fans. To be honest, I should probably upgrade the work fan and maybe the nozzle/heatsink fan.</span><br /><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>I have all these cool looking filaments, wanna print </i><u>now</u><i>, waaa</i></span><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">administrivia:<br /></span> <span style="font-size: medium;"><br />1) I bumped the text size because it seemed to me not everyone sits two feet from a twenty-seven inch monitor, and the text seemed rather small to me so I figured it would be hard to read on smaller monitors.<br /><br />B. I need to find a new blogging platform because Blogger is a serious pain in the ass to use. Why can't I flow text around video inserts without a struggle and mysterious behaviors? Soo clunky!</span><br /></div><div><p></p></div>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-14889456183603305052024-01-01T11:40:00.007-07:002024-01-18T05:27:48.808-07:00this is handy if you make chips...<p><span style="font-size: medium;"> ...but only if you care about tool life, surface finish, that sort of thing. ;)</span></p><span style="font-size: medium;">By the way: this calculator was a Christmas gift from my amazing wife. I admit that I put this and other things on my Amazon (I'm sorry) wish list so my better half wouldn't have to wonder whether I'd like the socks she got me. ;)</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr3-sIS5fMB4eXOBKaAz1YAACkHtZ9NYaOcV9yNy50St3flU5odHOlWcHI4TSYjehlY8iP6pSzSifHcMZdoivnkHnkwMFMzWzvpVmsoBkXwDqoHkftFs6fB3ZaZhlZ6LTP6WaI6DCSo3W0CTXBxEXLJvO_Ifdtz2RG0Ls2g5p-9Wz4c0KapBIfCxEBuGM/s800/IMG_2775.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr3-sIS5fMB4eXOBKaAz1YAACkHtZ9NYaOcV9yNy50St3flU5odHOlWcHI4TSYjehlY8iP6pSzSifHcMZdoivnkHnkwMFMzWzvpVmsoBkXwDqoHkftFs6fB3ZaZhlZ6LTP6WaI6DCSo3W0CTXBxEXLJvO_Ifdtz2RG0Ls2g5p-9Wz4c0KapBIfCxEBuGM/w400-h300/IMG_2775.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><p><span style="font-size: medium;">(a little later)<br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"> I noticed some things I should report before I forget or get used to them. <br /><br />0. This is not merely a calculator, it is also a reference book with all the tables you normally would use to make machining calcs manually. As a calculator per se, it can be a little cumbersome. It is also a little clunky to do trig on, which is something machinists do a lot of. I personally have needed trig maybe three times in my life, <i>but I am not a machinist</i>. That said, it <i>does have</i> all the usual trig functions.<br /><br />This calculator is made for shop floor use. It isn't a scientific calculator and doesn't pretend to be one.<br />
One wag said, "don't make it first year apprentice level" but that's just what it is, and what it should be.<br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
Everything a real machinist learns in their first years, with tables and reams
of paper, stays with them all their working life; this calculator tries to
get rid of the tables and the reams of paper.<br /></span>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
If you want something more, get out your scientific one and program it up.<br /><br />Also, it has an equals key.<br /></span> <span style="font-size: medium;"><br />[a few gasps are heard from the audience]<br /><br />Now is when all you RPN fetishists should run screaming into the night, since you won't be able to use this device. :P</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXIKHl5F9vmfj4yPizi7k4j0kM6pEOHABuDOgn9kt6bUD9Hdc_yIkTMz1ixkZS9BEyJ2xmv1ta896JzxYpbex6xZwV2wI8IqtnemzATnSLoJYVOt2iPv0KfWMpDIiPYXJyRztoB8nG_XCNKsYL4QzSc2TLrg7mbj2_sbgSKtbpDhyS9Gty8htoRRjplk/s529/Calculators%20vs%20girlfriend.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="453" data-original-width="529" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXIKHl5F9vmfj4yPizi7k4j0kM6pEOHABuDOgn9kt6bUD9Hdc_yIkTMz1ixkZS9BEyJ2xmv1ta896JzxYpbex6xZwV2wI8IqtnemzATnSLoJYVOt2iPv0KfWMpDIiPYXJyRztoB8nG_XCNKsYL4QzSc2TLrg7mbj2_sbgSKtbpDhyS9Gty8htoRRjplk/w320-h274/Calculators%20vs%20girlfriend.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I'll be slightly shocked if this doesn't offend <i>someone</i></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: medium;">1. What the hell is a "high performance" tool? The calc offers three tool (cutter) materials: HSS, carbide, and "high performance". At first, I assumed it meant ceramic, since that is the only other cutter material I know of. Since I've never been a professional machinist, I figured I'd stumbled over a gap in my knowledge, and I was about to learn something new. <br /><br /> So I searched the web for "high performance" tools and materials in a machining context, and you know what I found out? Not a damned thing. Everyone says their tool / material / cutter geometry is "high performance". The term is not explained in the manual, as if the reader is expected to know. Maybe it's a regional expression; if you're in Europe or Asia, perhaps everyone uses that term. <br /><br />In any case, since the only tooling I own (er, I think) is either HSS or carbide, I may just ignore it for now. Later I will probably discover or remember that the inserts I use in my lathe tools, and the inserts for my 3" shell mill, are all ceramic, I dunno. I wonder how I would even tell! <span>¯\_(ツ)_/¯<br /><br />2. My experience with calculators that run on coin cells dictates that this MF - which uses one cell not two - is gonna eat batteries like mad. I'll be delighted to be proved wrong if it happens.<br /><br />(spiffs)<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">• At any time during any calculation, you can switch between the inch and metric systems without re-entering anything, as should be.<br /><br />• Fractions are entered (and any number in the display or memory) can be flipped between fractional and decimal display simply by hitting the slash key. Can you remember the decimal equivalent for a 17/64 drill? I sure as hell can't. This changes nothing in memory, so switching what is displayed, or using it to enter a number, will not change how calculations are performed on that number.<br /><br />• </span><span style="font-size: medium;">It has more functions than most individual professional machinists
will use, but different professionals will use different function sets.
While reviewing opinions on Home Shop Machinist (which, unfortunately,
is populated by a disproportionate number of grumpy, snarky,
condescending pros and retired pros among the amateurs seeking
knowledge) I found some singing the praises of one feature set (thread
measuring for example - I will never own or use a 3-wire measuring kit
ever, but YMMV) whilst others poo-poo'd that feature and praised
something else.<br /><br />Your computer can do more things than you will ever use it for too. Relax and enjoy it.<br /></span></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-52213085466076036102023-12-15T07:50:00.007-07:002024-01-18T05:28:42.295-07:00again: what's taking so long?<p><span style="font-size: medium;">In June, my wife and I got Covid for the second time and this time it laid us low.<br />This impacted my attendance at work; I was out for weeks and I'm paid by the hour.<br /><br />In late summer, we got RSV. Or the worst case of flu ever. Doc thinks RSV. <br />My healthcare organization doesn't have the vaccine for it yet.<br />This impacted my attendance at work.<br /><br />In late fall, I began to develop planter fasciitis; it has since become intermittently severe.<br />This makes using my feet for anything very unpleasant.<br />This also impacted my attendance at work.<br /><br />At the start of December, my employer decided to punish my <strike>illnesses</strike> absences by cutting my hours by 60%. So now I am there even less; that'll teach my, er, co-workers?<br />IOW, we were broke <i>before</i> they forked me (right before Christmas, too, wasn't that nice?) so we are even more broke now.<br /><br />So, THAT is what has been taking so long. For everything, not just this hoist cart.<br /><br /></span></p><p style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><i>"Food, clothing, firing, rent, taxes, respectability, and children. <br />Nothing can lift those seven millstones from man’s neck but <br />money; and
the spirit cannot soar until the millstones are lifted." - GB Shaw</i><br /></span></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-60660008300026696322023-12-15T07:20:00.004-07:002024-01-18T06:30:54.291-07:00what's that?<p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_5w_UeGdM3P_QXi6v7UFUX738mMmm0DjB7p0ZmCqolw-Rvasz1SV7f29u2THu9tk7HhXDTt-U3t86tbGmmPWQ0BFqOkVCJzjjda-C5TNizlkwkMRokBys5fwRsHsazFUfjrGxSXApS220gtZ3fetkvpS4YziNPPPaipfphmT2yVgBgAR8DbtpDXt2AE/s800/IMG_2767.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_5w_UeGdM3P_QXi6v7UFUX738mMmm0DjB7p0ZmCqolw-Rvasz1SV7f29u2THu9tk7HhXDTt-U3t86tbGmmPWQ0BFqOkVCJzjjda-C5TNizlkwkMRokBys5fwRsHsazFUfjrGxSXApS220gtZ3fetkvpS4YziNPPPaipfphmT2yVgBgAR8DbtpDXt2AE/s320/IMG_2767.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">I made the top (hinged) attachment bracket for the hoist mast and have (temporarily) bolted it to the top deck of the cart.</span><p><span style="font-size: medium;">A semi-circular cutout in the channel will be made and the mast welded to that.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The channel will be welded to the hinges.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The hinges will be welded to the backet.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The thigh bone is connected to the leg bone.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">There will be a similar bracket for the bottom deck. It will receive the bottom of the mast, which will be held in place with a removable pin.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">All this so that the mast can be lowered across the top deck; otherwise I couldn't get it into and out of my shop.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">aside: there are two pieces of "U" channel in this photo, both were fabricated because deep U-channel isn't exactly common. Both are ≈.115 in. wall thickness claiming to be one-eighth inch. The top (movable) bracket, that is sitting on the hinges, one is 1x2 and was made by milling out one of the short walls. The bottom one in the image (bolted to the cart edge) is 1x3 and was made by welding three pieces together. Turns out my employee discount (on steel at least) is really, really good, because the store cost is really low, such that I can skip driving out to the scrap yard for many simple things pieces. I will probably be leaving that gig soon and by the gods I sure will miss that employee discount!</span><br /><br /> sigh: I bet there aren't many steel yards where we plan to move up in the mountains. sigh.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-9925348956479283572023-12-11T04:25:00.003-07:002023-12-15T07:21:11.207-07:00something is (finally) happening here...<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEresPeZi3vw4wZIuBPCKRViKQjj9JAwMIX5ZFkKE4-jR9KcZEIJ10Uhl4Uc6_l_qlwxZ-ADTwGfkze90975JoUgwW-fTDTODME1eweJKh7krlBTaV4vu_H-CBqR1iaJy6AUMxhIPm1V5pMiFUMrcbzL712GnEgeGRvl0XQwYK8SlOEkZlHkPzFdXJBLU/s1024/IMG_2765.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEresPeZi3vw4wZIuBPCKRViKQjj9JAwMIX5ZFkKE4-jR9KcZEIJ10Uhl4Uc6_l_qlwxZ-ADTwGfkze90975JoUgwW-fTDTODME1eweJKh7krlBTaV4vu_H-CBqR1iaJy6AUMxhIPm1V5pMiFUMrcbzL712GnEgeGRvl0XQwYK8SlOEkZlHkPzFdXJBLU/s320/IMG_2765.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><p></p><div style="text-align: center;">What it is ain't exactly clear...</div>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-59615484554267036342023-09-19T07:11:00.001-06:002023-09-19T07:11:07.058-06:00in the mean time... some light reading<p> Have you ever wondered about the origin of the humble "miniature" neon lamp? (NE-2, etc)<br /><br /> Me neither.</p><p> But Fran Blanche posted about this fellow, and I read the Wikipedia page about him, and I found his story interesting enough (despite the inventor's tragic end) that I suspect my readers will find it interesting as well.<br /><br /> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_McFarlan_Moore<br /><br /> I'm sorry I still haven't much to report from the workshop. Covid took a lot out of both my wife and I, and my energy levels just aren't up to any extra effort. Work takes a lot out of me, because standing and walking on concrete floors for eight hours is exhausting to my coworkers who are half my age. It's hard on your knees, ankles, feet... ask any nurse! So all my energy reserves go to making minimum wage, then my days off are spent recovering from my job.<br /><br /> All whining aside, the main shop project is still the lifting cart. There is incremental work I could be doing on it, but it would help me tremendously if I had the three inch (or so) steel tube or thin-walled pipe that will be the mast.</p><p> So that's what I'll be working on when I can.<br /><br /> Unfortunately, no other interesting projects on the burner right now.<br /><br />More as it happens though, I promise. <br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-41080313167626842912023-09-13T19:55:00.003-06:002023-09-13T19:55:53.034-06:00hiatus again<p>We got covid over the summer.<br />Other things have happened.<br />We're broke.<br />I haven't had any free time.<br /><br />So not much is happening in the shop right now.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-14800567593315363112023-05-30T09:02:00.002-06:002023-12-15T07:52:14.104-07:00hoisting cart progressing<p> Literally found this cart (just the bottom part) in an alley. It is 1 in. birch ply, with 800lb rated casters mounted on steel hat sections running the long way on the underside. It looked to me like a very beefy version of a bell cart, missing the frame that mounts to the four posts.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhjJT32b3ab5lyKl0IteUOcdy1IxOHHkd5KMxm296_9sTN1CTTQaVLe38W7YQnY_Vp6ZKqv-jQ2fwlwjXRlFcWQSuOXnauHartPifMDq32wcoPGcYMATQNb9akPAJBc9WmKlXTI_JPyv-KILqrTLoJVC0bJEkHU88y1U6JN2GB7uwp3bJKJvWApV0Hm" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhjJT32b3ab5lyKl0IteUOcdy1IxOHHkd5KMxm296_9sTN1CTTQaVLe38W7YQnY_Vp6ZKqv-jQ2fwlwjXRlFcWQSuOXnauHartPifMDq32wcoPGcYMATQNb9akPAJBc9WmKlXTI_JPyv-KILqrTLoJVC0bJEkHU88y1U6JN2GB7uwp3bJKJvWApV0Hm=w150-h200" width="150" /></a> </div><p></p><p> Steel pipe dropped into the existing sockets nicely and are secured with three fat set screws each. A top deck was cut from 3/4 in. ply, sanded and coated with black polyurethane, and mounted to the steel pipe risers with pipe flanges.<br /><br /> Steel bracing is provided to distribute the overturning moment of the mast and jib when loaded.</p><p> The mast will be hinged at the top deck, and fixed to the bottom deck with a removable pin, so it may be lowered to get it out of the room.<br /><br /> Two 12 in. long, swing-out outrigger jacks (more pipe) will be provided near the mast end, to resist the overturning moment when the loaded jib is swung around to the sides (ie; to lower a load onto the work surface).<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEicENZclOWB4VGjOIxLG07PpOyILf58Ju1sPVaiqxU_FuwELsy5zLr1D7GZ_aNtmlL0pPJlXKBGJ54ASaC8fVipvFdyCLmZMwWlFeFJdb02xBSXxoB2hVOBNhge_NOfwS3J-_qkC03N7o6CYewQzy5U955pBXWzWW2wXrJbGHm354dNTmn5uM7iXzsB" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEicENZclOWB4VGjOIxLG07PpOyILf58Ju1sPVaiqxU_FuwELsy5zLr1D7GZ_aNtmlL0pPJlXKBGJ54ASaC8fVipvFdyCLmZMwWlFeFJdb02xBSXxoB2hVOBNhge_NOfwS3J-_qkC03N7o6CYewQzy5U955pBXWzWW2wXrJbGHm354dNTmn5uM7iXzsB=w200-h150" width="200" /></a></div><br /> I now have most of the steel and parts onhand except the mast itself. A swivel mount for the jib arm at the top of the mast still needs to be fabricated. Rather than a sleeve (hard to find), I'm planning a four-sided cage made of angle iron, with a COTS thrust bearing on top, and four machined brass bearing surfaces to take the loads on the sides of the mast inside the cage. It works in my head...<br /><br /> More as it happens.<br /><p></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-449544976674565682023-03-17T07:50:00.010-06:002023-05-30T09:07:20.357-06:00a material handling incident Wile E. Coyote would have recognized<p> So there I was*, minding my own business in my shop, making a lifting rig for my rotary table, so I can hoist it to and from my mill's table with ease and safety...<br /><br /> For a while now, said rotary table has been sitting on a wheeled cart, on top of a random steel framedingus to bring it to a convenient height, all just so I can move the damned thing around the shop easily. note: the top of the cart has carpet on it. (former bell cart)<br /><br /> The steel framus is just a random leftover, roughly cubic, from something I once took apart.<br />note that it is smooth(ish) and painted on top.<br />note that the bottom of the rotary is very smooth indeed... and it leaks oil.<br /> (ooh! foreshadowing!)</p><p> Said cart was in my way, so I gave it a shove with one foot. A hard shove, since there's some two hundred pounds total mass there. To my astonishment and horror, the cart moved smartly as intended, the cubical framatron went with it as intended, and the rotary stayed put in mid-air for a split instant (because Newton was a savage motherfucker, shit must have been wild before he invented inertia) then succumbed to gravity and fell to the remaining top of the cart.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSHXxV6_mzyKQqlwBKBLSHXxtXwdbSb7aFTVwXeFTOnw-LfLE91qb-wI6oHaw87AiIkAJ5jgDK1Ge-7MuOidt2Y9JtGgZDJUtuVAgLOR1SDC4nUGEibZed2xWf1qmicsy5fOEKYfVvKeme5S1lPW38RnE2DgG3sSPlsukEQdeg61IcC_P_9ybAo4ny/s1024/IMG_2376.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSHXxV6_mzyKQqlwBKBLSHXxtXwdbSb7aFTVwXeFTOnw-LfLE91qb-wI6oHaw87AiIkAJ5jgDK1Ge-7MuOidt2Y9JtGgZDJUtuVAgLOR1SDC4nUGEibZed2xWf1qmicsy5fOEKYfVvKeme5S1lPW38RnE2DgG3sSPlsukEQdeg61IcC_P_9ybAo4ny/w200-h150/IMG_2376.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div> It did <i>not</i> hit the cement floor and break (cuz cast iron, cuz!) and it did <i>not</i> touch my foot. My ancestors were looking out for me this morning.<br /><p></p><p> I moved the cart to take the picture, but everything on it remained where it was after the incident (and will remain there - the rotary at least - until the paint has dried on the second half of the lifting sling I was making). The gizmoframe was shifted by the table coming down at an angle. No toes were harmed in the making of this safety film.<br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyzepsFB--EKWqL-DUKJkeWdRQzHM_YOi9cfxWOdbnM2Zepg7s36gLRDACcwiLNNNQhLIyyWXEG3SZNSphK90jA1H5pEeQBKTePMM9ArFjIA6fwLtONm4_MQ70W0g45NLOD12ll56FP7KwRZNdF6hdytONykq3JIqgZAfE6cEiI22Jgs3-4cnxgtnH/s1024/IMG_2377.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyzepsFB--EKWqL-DUKJkeWdRQzHM_YOi9cfxWOdbnM2Zepg7s36gLRDACcwiLNNNQhLIyyWXEG3SZNSphK90jA1H5pEeQBKTePMM9ArFjIA6fwLtONm4_MQ70W0g45NLOD12ll56FP7KwRZNdF6hdytONykq3JIqgZAfE6cEiI22Jgs3-4cnxgtnH/w150-h200/IMG_2377.jpeg" width="150" /></a></div><p> Speaking of lifting slings; the reason I was making a lifting sling is that I have (temporarily, until the hoist cart is built) rigged a hoist over one end of the mill table, enabling me to get the 59kg / 130lb beast up and down without hurting my back. So far so good. But the table has long rods for handles, 11.5cm / 4.5in long. Putting a chain sling or hooks on these and lifting is dangerously unstable.<br /><br /> Maybe I've spent too much time as a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@NASASpaceflight/featured" target="_blank">Texas Tank Watcher</a>, but the "correct" solution seemed obvious: make a custom lifting rig which solidly prevents shifting and makes for a clean, level lift. This we then do. I finished the first half a few days ago. Fabbing the second hook took only a few hours early this morning, followed by primer. I will update this post showing it in use when the paint is dry.</p><p> This is a typical pattern of fabrication for me whenever I need to make more than one of something (unless I have drawings and am doing precision or interchangeable parts); I complete one to figure out how to do it, then I make numbers 2 through <i>N</i>, subtracting any mistakes I made on the first one.<br /></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBYHIM8B5HSZur1V87Ktv1J3DSM1NylABRYY-QuX_3AJRkMTYbQatarhv_ArmNxWgkdrMU7eW9NuOEIRSDZW-QU7J0qw0-NvWBvn5FrQcNmKToBDeRL2k-2e2uFrIz8XUHqRa--8iaqDlssGqKjLcSHyNTt4ZAT9y3E25sJckFsdtFkxhsLzv4Donq/s800/IMG_2378.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBYHIM8B5HSZur1V87Ktv1J3DSM1NylABRYY-QuX_3AJRkMTYbQatarhv_ArmNxWgkdrMU7eW9NuOEIRSDZW-QU7J0qw0-NvWBvn5FrQcNmKToBDeRL2k-2e2uFrIz8XUHqRa--8iaqDlssGqKjLcSHyNTt4ZAT9y3E25sJckFsdtFkxhsLzv4Donq/w200-h150/IMG_2378.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div>EDIT: action shot: <br /><br /> <p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><br /> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>____________________________________________<br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">* 'there I was' indicates this is a 'war story'.<br /> If this were it a fairy tale, it would begin with "once upon a time."</span><br /></p><br />Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-34464152376297635042023-03-07T08:33:00.006-07:002023-03-07T08:33:51.374-07:00blog colors changed<p> by popular request, I've changed the default blog colors to eye-searing black text on bright white background.<br /><br /> I'll just have to make it look the way I need for my light-sensitive vampire eyeballs, using DarkReader. Hmph.<br />👅<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-63881395839734997202023-03-07T08:18:00.010-07:002024-01-18T06:08:13.417-07:00temperature control system for 3D printer enclosure<p> The Problem:</p><p> My 3D printer is in a basement room which, in the winter months, stays well below reasonable printing temperatures. The house is literally 115 years old, so fixing the room temp isn't going to happen.<br /><br /> The First Half of the Solution:</p><p> Fortunately, a very good friend gave me a heat-resistant 3DP enclosure. The printer alone dissipates over two hundred watts between the bed heat, hotend, and motor drivers. So I measured temps after the printer had been in "preheat" mode for 30min, and it plateaued just below where I needed to be, while the room temp was on the "high" side of its low range. Well poop. <br /><br /> My tent needed a heater, but obviously if I just stuck a small heater in there, there would be nothing to stop the temperature from climbing so high it cooked the printer's electronics. It was time to consider a proper temperature control.<br /><br /> The first bit of good news is that I've done this sort of thing before so I already knew how easy it really is. It's just a matter of buying a few <i><u>C</u>ommercial <u>O</u>ff <u>T</u>he <u>S</u>helf</i> parts and connecting them together with a few simple screw terminal connections. Usually, you don't even need to solder.<br /><br />Complete kits containing the PID controller, a "solid state relay", and a heat sink can be found online for under $30, so I did that because I was broke and cost had to trump quality this time.<br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"> (for the reason 'SSR' is in quotes, please see <a href="https://youtu.be/DxEhxjvifyY" target="_blank">this Big Clive video</a>, in which he tears down an identical unit)</span></b><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOEYo4QfXp6VxJzmomStRJJRyJYK3_9uGQVgZjzoRGL4Ay0JiXEHEYM0AzKblGj1qBoftF7478CGmWJoUaxABEX3-6v5PFjkiBwT146RoSk7pWidslfwnWtyB_DpQQXtnN4yGT6lKrPqP4ogpiQhtcJfInwGldlHr8oHDbDxW9H5Bjx6fpRTHuq6Dw/s4032/IMG_2084.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOEYo4QfXp6VxJzmomStRJJRyJYK3_9uGQVgZjzoRGL4Ay0JiXEHEYM0AzKblGj1qBoftF7478CGmWJoUaxABEX3-6v5PFjkiBwT146RoSk7pWidslfwnWtyB_DpQQXtnN4yGT6lKrPqP4ogpiQhtcJfInwGldlHr8oHDbDxW9H5Bjx6fpRTHuq6Dw/w150-h200/IMG_2084.JPG" width="150" /></a></div> So it's a fake SSR in the strictest sense, a sense we don't care too much about, but the screw holding the thermopad / TO220 style device inside to the back plate was <i>literally sticking out of the heat sink surface</i>! I had to file and sand all of that flat to get a good mate to the all-too-thin Chinesium heat sink.<br /> <br /> Fortunately, the thing has astonishingly low forward drop compared to the devices I am used to; it didn't get warm at all under a 20A load, and the device is nominally rated to 40A. I flatly did not believe that number before I tested it... but it might be possible! In any case, the load for this application is only 2.5 amps.<br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzgRRbcjw6oNxzM1mLOEVMSIoQAxo4HBvTjdcXepBAHDywy9TKf4koNdLMkWUw3HzYkrP5jvpZUy9LvBZRR98Nu1F_JehEPQIzBxydkDdzq1HUjT2bLO8TOVlIpRV5E1vzI7qeqfxaZG4fV0KOXPLdpkJW2tZM-8SpUcUFzF8ciG5_bu4VFkQvHyiA/s4032/IMG_2085.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzgRRbcjw6oNxzM1mLOEVMSIoQAxo4HBvTjdcXepBAHDywy9TKf4koNdLMkWUw3HzYkrP5jvpZUy9LvBZRR98Nu1F_JehEPQIzBxydkDdzq1HUjT2bLO8TOVlIpRV5E1vzI7qeqfxaZG4fV0KOXPLdpkJW2tZM-8SpUcUFzF8ciG5_bu4VFkQvHyiA/w150-h200/IMG_2085.JPG" width="150" /></a></div> The next item I needed was an enclosure. Because I needed to preserve as much desktop real estate as I could, I decided I wanted a deep enclosure with a small front panel. After poking around the usual places, I was astonished to find that I couldn't find one to buy at any price, so I decided to make one.<br /><br /> A quick review of available materials and a bit of brainstorming assisted by a bowl of the finest Longbottom Weed, I realized a scrap of extrusion which has been knocking around my shop for literally decades had finally found its final fate. All I had to do was cut it in half, patch up a bunch of ugly holes, mill a bunch of not-ugly ventilation slots, oh and figure out how to attach the two cut halves to each other in a permanent and durable way, without being able to weld aluminum. Visions of Rosy The Riveter, hashtag 'we can do this'.<p></p><p> This we then do.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpUZn09KH-RFVZWorhPXWot1UE8oKH8S8ms29JwgC44UYY2_Z-mAs4B_lezZSTFzdIVTsqcdXqd4fgD0VT_-9Sdu8_VIJooue3CJruQfdbAP3bJIlHapA-YRxRlZ5txwLN_ROXtCeH1smh6WpUYtJEwPjtsrqIYsRZbR80qYD6jDZSWvsJBsOgAq0k/s4032/IMG_2131.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpUZn09KH-RFVZWorhPXWot1UE8oKH8S8ms29JwgC44UYY2_Z-mAs4B_lezZSTFzdIVTsqcdXqd4fgD0VT_-9Sdu8_VIJooue3CJruQfdbAP3bJIlHapA-YRxRlZ5txwLN_ROXtCeH1smh6WpUYtJEwPjtsrqIYsRZbR80qYD6jDZSWvsJBsOgAq0k/w150-h200/IMG_2131.JPG" width="150" /></a></div> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg85gm1Iik_DtqCHNuTyAsS8cm_BSY0WYGgfyZ6p7Xh4HgucMl1SSsnNvOTQ6xNefDJJHZ-nVClPQmyGx4ikQcNgXid_PrbobcoYhW_drQpuzbuTocrOmYABpnorEe4d7hcBHSHUbi-KM43NTzdrj0zD3ThgeyU_WaoHUUnFeFyUR_om6J8FjPvuCP/s4032/IMG_2225.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg85gm1Iik_DtqCHNuTyAsS8cm_BSY0WYGgfyZ6p7Xh4HgucMl1SSsnNvOTQ6xNefDJJHZ-nVClPQmyGx4ikQcNgXid_PrbobcoYhW_drQpuzbuTocrOmYABpnorEe4d7hcBHSHUbi-KM43NTzdrj0zD3ThgeyU_WaoHUUnFeFyUR_om6J8FjPvuCP/w150-h200/IMG_2225.JPG" width="150" /></a><p></p><p> I drilled matching holes in the thicker bits where the two halves would meet, epoxied little aluminum pins into the holes, applied epoxy to the roughened edges, and "glued" the two halves together. <br /><br /> When done, I lacked confidence in those pins and their small surface areas, so I added three machined 'clips' and epoxied those to the inside, around the thick edges. NOW I am semi-confident that the two pieces will remain one piece... provided nobody drops it. I wish I had thought to take a picture of them before I painted everything black but I didn't so there it is.<br /><br /> Next I needed a front panel for the controller and a power switch, and a back panel for power entry module, fan and heater output receptacles, and thermocouple input terminals. That effort looked like this: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuXER9HTtQl1gFmsDVYhVSI5jGiMauKdu4rRGAEiYQFXVXfILQLT7rzJ_gYQXS4RDJjt_mEJf6Dx8EqPD4Or5OFb0CAZQcL69Tw4-fp2dkNdbouP6lEwGEqmrcUvFyxyRX09o9dWOoGhEMiaEFXVInaxJBAMPMt_vbfYHHcj_QMxLL44wuHsPrqtT/s4032/69344682986__5925BD58-011B-4AF9-BAA4-394E76D94F2E.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuXER9HTtQl1gFmsDVYhVSI5jGiMauKdu4rRGAEiYQFXVXfILQLT7rzJ_gYQXS4RDJjt_mEJf6Dx8EqPD4Or5OFb0CAZQcL69Tw4-fp2dkNdbouP6lEwGEqmrcUvFyxyRX09o9dWOoGhEMiaEFXVInaxJBAMPMt_vbfYHHcj_QMxLL44wuHsPrqtT/w150-h200/69344682986__5925BD58-011B-4AF9-BAA4-394E76D94F2E.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>Blogger won't let me put multiple photographs on the same line, isn't that amazing?<br /><p></p><p> The back panel was a bigger PITA than the front, because it had more fiddly holes in it, but nobody sees it. </p><p> The front panel needs to look good, but it's only got two big square holes and the four small panel mounting holes.</p><p> I have to assume this extrusion was intended for making things like this.<br /><br />I also have to assume there is clever hardware for joining the halves which I do not have on hand.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPwjgHxwQjmSne_IUERbcZvGaLz2IT8xTsOCQkwrDfedhxKTJiJk2EOhbVUjjKVur1v_A7ogp_Q_J019kPzLepDO2jHAPH-lEjoxdNry8gCoa5gQfMtkWSJ6bc15bkQDLw7tMQu6lIh9_FjlZ56X7HvoBte8PAchru8WosdpAU_Nltimh9qykxQYQU/s4032/IMG_2193.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPwjgHxwQjmSne_IUERbcZvGaLz2IT8xTsOCQkwrDfedhxKTJiJk2EOhbVUjjKVur1v_A7ogp_Q_J019kPzLepDO2jHAPH-lEjoxdNry8gCoa5gQfMtkWSJ6bc15bkQDLw7tMQu6lIh9_FjlZ56X7HvoBte8PAchru8WosdpAU_Nltimh9qykxQYQU/w200-h150/IMG_2193.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><p> I decided to make the front panel unnecessarily thick, so I could unnecessarily counterbore the panel screws and use socket-head cap screws for added sexiness.<br /><br /> This is why some of my simple projects take a long time, but I was motivated to do a better job than I usually would (for myself) because I planned to blog about it here, and I didn't want to embarrass myself.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSRRCX57Ks8AVboN758ADH7jgZPTP4N2YM-FQVQOdHLYHgWU1_mog9ep_G1znbJ_3j7cFGgGVpnbUw0SyDbt-ySGy0zr4_T5UHKBV26UpQZ8BcYiEYBg5FiOxkHVxU4YNhLu42eMLHlaJk6Oj24ib3McJlPAQEb43dqMN4HTvcE2ZgxdvFC64NuRnj/s4032/IMG_2200.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSRRCX57Ks8AVboN758ADH7jgZPTP4N2YM-FQVQOdHLYHgWU1_mog9ep_G1znbJ_3j7cFGgGVpnbUw0SyDbt-ySGy0zr4_T5UHKBV26UpQZ8BcYiEYBg5FiOxkHVxU4YNhLu42eMLHlaJk6Oj24ib3McJlPAQEb43dqMN4HTvcE2ZgxdvFC64NuRnj/w200-h150/IMG_2200.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>Fiddly, fiddly. Measure thrice, cut once.<br /><p> At least with the front and back panels, if I scrapped one, I could replace it. That wasn't true for the enclosure halves, and I was tense about that a few times when I was cutting on them.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK10VcN0Urzeb2RVosWLDGnkmJaWpzEInZoPiHJXvv13v6CS21iQnmq9sou_FYcgIBIqv-O10570vM_FD68pTJF3MWWnWCG0WfRGmqn1KjDFwSTvNbmLbcMjA1gfPF335e-djUlNv2SB22wf6NkOImVnexgHkHCO4ze5ojss1kHq39y0OdYjCpDzGY/s4032/IMG_2205.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK10VcN0Urzeb2RVosWLDGnkmJaWpzEInZoPiHJXvv13v6CS21iQnmq9sou_FYcgIBIqv-O10570vM_FD68pTJF3MWWnWCG0WfRGmqn1KjDFwSTvNbmLbcMjA1gfPF335e-djUlNv2SB22wf6NkOImVnexgHkHCO4ze5ojss1kHq39y0OdYjCpDzGY/w200-h150/IMG_2205.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />Milling thin materials - or rather, fixturing thin materials so you aren't also milling your machine's table... can be interesting.<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP7sGJAoRgYuOyUXdbIkW4iiYaR2sEpMsIsMYmYqod_ncqm0pq3Ouj-9G-UltCbTwsrb71W_LpS9L3hKAHA4ag10N5iIPOA_QbvZXvVV8cNDJoIeoeCxEeU7E7uW3opkHr0K-AtKx5mNSlWlvOJcecXF07zSNE3B6P1xK_7Wfz3nN89W2zloy1KE8p/s4032/IMG_2206.JPEG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP7sGJAoRgYuOyUXdbIkW4iiYaR2sEpMsIsMYmYqod_ncqm0pq3Ouj-9G-UltCbTwsrb71W_LpS9L3hKAHA4ag10N5iIPOA_QbvZXvVV8cNDJoIeoeCxEeU7E7uW3opkHr0K-AtKx5mNSlWlvOJcecXF07zSNE3B6P1xK_7Wfz3nN89W2zloy1KE8p/w200-h150/IMG_2206.JPEG" width="200" /></a></div> I saw no reason to put much effort into the finish of the back panel, so I just ran it over a convolute wheel on the buffer a few times.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcyreZBy0BaHntImQHMNR38Yb-e_Y2IuPjlET1hntcPOBXFLjTjIYQ6Fge3ZG1lH6W8O9GoVKgsVRviqmPiDTuA3XGRpMPp9o2tzgGDBEItVixt9uLlvn6C0-_LPEiLmKa_zB_wEIS9iASCEQ5SeF77A7Z6UCTh8gGVs74ucABmtt28uJ7N28j6mil/s4032/69467268924__A785E471-640E-4E84-A1FA-E2AA92B92951.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcyreZBy0BaHntImQHMNR38Yb-e_Y2IuPjlET1hntcPOBXFLjTjIYQ6Fge3ZG1lH6W8O9GoVKgsVRviqmPiDTuA3XGRpMPp9o2tzgGDBEItVixt9uLlvn6C0-_LPEiLmKa_zB_wEIS9iASCEQ5SeF77A7Z6UCTh8gGVs74ucABmtt28uJ7N28j6mil/w150-h200/69467268924__A785E471-640E-4E84-A1FA-E2AA92B92951.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><p> Then came paint. On a lark, I decided to coat the enclosure with Rustoleum™ Texture paint (rattle-can). I bought it with my employee discount at the store where I work. This won't be an endorsement, nor a condemnation, because while I like the finish, Rustoleum seems to have a problem with their cans; since they now spray in any orientation, it's not possible to clear the nozzle & valve <i>per the instructions still printed on the can</i>. </p><p> As a consequence, you can get two, maybe three spraying sessions out of a can before the valve clogs.</p><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCqXOeaORVhQPcS4OJQhs6YvXidpFmmj3Il2RSdhrWlCs8rbZFN3V9WNARITzvNgqR8OQQoOtk_EoymfAbO711qond1xD9GcDi0FEVfo9izz0lSt-znnOu5-KRvk6-ddTBECDN9B4RqNu3aOJ8YUwDew31G2uDr7cujFDXcQL9YHCleEMImI8JqzWE/s4032/69467267418__04CAFE4D-C2DD-4010-8569-D2FF37E5F7ED.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCqXOeaORVhQPcS4OJQhs6YvXidpFmmj3Il2RSdhrWlCs8rbZFN3V9WNARITzvNgqR8OQQoOtk_EoymfAbO711qond1xD9GcDi0FEVfo9izz0lSt-znnOu5-KRvk6-ddTBECDN9B4RqNu3aOJ8YUwDew31G2uDr7cujFDXcQL9YHCleEMImI8JqzWE/s320/69467267418__04CAFE4D-C2DD-4010-8569-D2FF37E5F7ED.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><p>"image enlarged to show texture"<br />( for scale, that's a countersunk hole for a #10 screw )<br /><br /> Seriously, this stuff has a lovely appearance and feel, at least for my aesthetics. The feel / texture is not "rough" in that it does not drag against the skin the way, say, sandpaper might, as the peaks are not sharp, but it is noticeable.<br /><br /> The character of the texture changes somewhat with additional coats. I did a few tests on other bits of aluminum, and it adheres under abuse, and once baked on with heat (always do this if you can) it becomes quite scratch and abuse-resistance, as much as any paint I suppose, but I think the texture helps to hide marks.<br /><br /> I could have hidden the seam lines in the enclosure using epoxy or bondo and a bunch of sanding and/or milling... when I got to that decision point in the project, it seemed like a lot of additional work, and I decided to try to reign in my OCD at that point to save myself much frustration, and remind myself of the wisdom of Voltaire: "Perfect is the enemy of Good".</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX_akwJper21O497cD1UZlsZ0sM-uKgIDA3C3ngw5kMNgw3II-QtcT8h9ndLeoqz4l4tC78_wUCgoKCDu9RQ8hb9aBzQ_i_p-vqY6ehjHw3lUqYJM7Ugi8pYgiaEOKY9ioA3WFA3vvNmeyxNxJnMEj3-rzFacXu872aIv6L_Z_uHRad1VB1jWzQD3c/s1280/IMG_2360.jpeg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX_akwJper21O497cD1UZlsZ0sM-uKgIDA3C3ngw5kMNgw3II-QtcT8h9ndLeoqz4l4tC78_wUCgoKCDu9RQ8hb9aBzQ_i_p-vqY6ehjHw3lUqYJM7Ugi8pYgiaEOKY9ioA3WFA3vvNmeyxNxJnMEj3-rzFacXu872aIv6L_Z_uHRad1VB1jWzQD3c/s320/IMG_2360.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Ze Back Panel.<br /><br /> The controller can use either T/C or RTD input, and I have brought both out to terminals on the back panel.<br /><br /> Ground wire is connected to the shield of the T/C cable.</p><p> Yes, there is a missing screw. We don't talk about the missing screw. That was a Very Bad Day.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfLHC1hwRv2TbSeN_kyRK3Q1K4liSXz3mansGCK5KrltCDIuXEwxqRxYmcK3KWlG84CFCU4T7_ZlnBTCqaEEQE6NGEpXGkd3ENc0-k-6ocZE6mkZuCHFTP3J1-pZTcUyMItv4zSe18pzCsqSoGhKM22SmHNSzFhDRV1vq8UPkPgxwigI28awq3cfKS/s4032/IMG_2227.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfLHC1hwRv2TbSeN_kyRK3Q1K4liSXz3mansGCK5KrltCDIuXEwxqRxYmcK3KWlG84CFCU4T7_ZlnBTCqaEEQE6NGEpXGkd3ENc0-k-6ocZE6mkZuCHFTP3J1-pZTcUyMItv4zSe18pzCsqSoGhKM22SmHNSzFhDRV1vq8UPkPgxwigI28awq3cfKS/s320/IMG_2227.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Done.<br /><br /> The controller is the auto-tuning PID sort, very easy to use if you are patient and follow the instructions.<br /><br /> It's not as easy to use as an Omega, but an Omega is $200 whereas this thing cost me $20 including a SSR and heat sink.<br /><br /> Sometimes Chinesium wins. :(<br /><br />Which reminds me, I don't know where the instructions are any more. >_<<br /><br /> note, later:<br /><br />Now I just need to make something like it all over again for our espresso machine, which ships from the factory with small, click-disk type thermal switches. The inside of the unit is a dog's breakfast of wiring and water tubing. Just replacing the switches ought to be loads of fun. •cough•wheeze•<br /> <br /> It would literally be easier to disconnect the thermal switches and leave them in place, epoxy a thermocouple to the boiler, connect the boiler leads to the temp controller and cover it back up.<br /><br /> I'd better start thinking about another enclosure...<br />Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-47610593334321433042023-03-07T06:12:00.001-07:002023-03-07T08:22:48.211-07:00haha, wut? (awful eBay advertisement - more real posts coming soon)<p>You could be forgiven for not knowing what the hell is being sold here... <br /></p><div style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><span class="a-list-item"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">1. The newest embedded square LCD display
table headers, so that the sewing machine looks more compact, avoiding
accidental collision damage to the table header, voltage direct
intuitive reflect. More detailed shell process for aluminum panel
drawing process, more stylish, shiny appearance. Internal process on all
models more excellence, this is definitely a good partner Hi-Fi. </span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></div><div style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /><span class="a-list-item">
2. 3000W strong load power, together with its two-inductor-current
filter, can easily bring all kinds of HiFi, AV equipment, 27 to 50-inch
large color TV, three shots projection, LCD rear projection, high-power
amplifier and various theater equipment. </span></span></div><div style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="a-list-item"> </span><br /><span class="a-list-item">
3. Made of imported high-quality components common mode, differential
mode AC power supply filter, with surge surge absorption, l ightning,
the current automatic circuit overload protection. Analog output with
professional-level AC voltage meter header, filter output at any time
direct the level of AC voltage 220V to audiophile level of the output
voltage will be adjusted to your sound system the best audio and visual
effects. </span></span></div><div style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="a-list-item"> </span><br /><span class="a-list-item"> 4. Filter
internal material examination: imported power cable, shielded metal in
fever-Germany-jamming WIMA MKP capacitors, German professional filter
capacitor. 16A surcharge short-circuit protection. </span></span></div><div style="margin-left: 40px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="a-list-item"> </span><br /><span class="a-list-item">
5. Innovative ground, the line (FireWire) automatically detect whether
the circuit that can detect your wall outlet is grounded, zero line and
the line (FireWire) is reversed, and indicated on the dial. </span></span></div><p><span class="a-list-item"></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbSYiuGhHVN7k8675u_oy97WhqA3x894pcmZuL1laYhioOFZgyP41RJA_zGn6Fxnj58iSIFkUXzPOkzAEsIu-yug7xMr8QQJwQPxxPLJZSl9tesQQxpXruwrRWfweXRhuHXYnVffNqtb05oPDSDOWPsDFGCwzviDWD_WcJfGKqy3N-3ikJnom6wn66/s448/41VedbCXDZL._AC_.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="361" data-original-width="448" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbSYiuGhHVN7k8675u_oy97WhqA3x894pcmZuL1laYhioOFZgyP41RJA_zGn6Fxnj58iSIFkUXzPOkzAEsIu-yug7xMr8QQJwQPxxPLJZSl9tesQQxpXruwrRWfweXRhuHXYnVffNqtb05oPDSDOWPsDFGCwzviDWD_WcJfGKqy3N-3ikJnom6wn66/s320/41VedbCXDZL._AC_.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span class="a-list-item">Got it figured out yet? Perhaps this photograph will help.</span><p></p><p><span class="a-list-item">Yeah, it's a power line filter.<br /></span><span class="a-list-item"></span></p><p></p><span class="a-list-item">And you know what? People are gonna buy the hell out of it because it looks sexy and buyers are ignorant.<br /></span><span class="a-list-item"></span><p></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-25549431793150123182023-01-02T05:37:00.004-07:002023-01-02T05:55:40.139-07:00my slow progress isn't all on me- I've had help!<div><p> "<span>This package is delayed due to severe weather in the delivery network."</span></p><p><span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmsszwL0-RSm3JL1b0mXNfDZVlrYTv7ZKMaw3htLRkqAqKYh-f1LYRCVKL0YkGgQR284NzqPd40219iv6ZA9kUD6zSthct9IcptgdzoMCfFmiVuDvcUela0lPLV2SCDOEwKyAMXHx4V24jBIKNIkBBQAz8coZHbefl0M3XsW8t9dzhu2Ls3XHJGl9i/s907/Screen%20Shot%202023-01-02%20at%205.23.58%20AM.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="907" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmsszwL0-RSm3JL1b0mXNfDZVlrYTv7ZKMaw3htLRkqAqKYh-f1LYRCVKL0YkGgQR284NzqPd40219iv6ZA9kUD6zSthct9IcptgdzoMCfFmiVuDvcUela0lPLV2SCDOEwKyAMXHx4V24jBIKNIkBBQAz8coZHbefl0M3XsW8t9dzhu2Ls3XHJGl9i/s320/Screen%20Shot%202023-01-02%20at%205.23.58%20AM.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /> Nah, horseshit Amazon; this package was delayed because you had it right here in Denver, but instead of dropping it at my house, you sent it to a ski resort sixty miles west of here, up in the mountains, and then you had to send it back to Denver. Well done, Amazon. Golf clap.<br /><br /> So now you say it is "expected" by today. Expected by who??<br /><br /> And this shit has been constant.<br /><br />ex: I have a major network upgrade for the garage, my shop, and my wife's office which is held up for lack of a $5 wall-wart and a $3 conduit nipple which I have to drive out to the 'burbs to purchase.<br /><br />ex: I broke off a tap in a piece of work which is essentially irreplaceable, so I spent eight or ten man-hours trying unsuccessfully to remove it, and I had to buy another tap before I could finish the other holes.<br /><br /> My slow progress (on anything worth blogging about, at least) has not been held up by the lack of big expensive items or by serious back injuries or meteor strikes. No, progress has been glacial because of an endless parade of seemingly trivial yet effective setbacks. I don't know why the gods wish me to fail, but it's clear that they do.<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">~≈{O}≈~<br /></div><br /><div> PS: on an unrelated note, I wanted to point out another reason for the rarity of my posts: I'm trying to only post about what I myself am actually doing. I'm trying NOT to post "helpful hints" about topics of interest which can be found all over the net.<br /><br /> So for example, I won't post about how to stop a Raspberry Pi from fighting with a Creality 3DP control board, because that's well documented and _I_ am catching up in that regard, I'm doing nothing different there.<br /><br /> However, I absolutely am blogging about the temperature control system I've made for my printer's enclosure, and will eventually do a proper write-up with entirely too many pictures, because:<br />A) I haven't found anyone else doing that, anywhere, not even on the Creality discord<br />B) It might actually be useful to other people who need to run their printer in a too-cool room<br />C) Making a fancy (heating only) temperature control system is much, much, easier than one might think, and does not require an EE degree to do, with today's readily available and inexpensive parts.<br /><br /> That sort of thing might actually be worth typing up a long windy document, not to mention wrasslin' with Blogger's primitive image-handling. :)<br /><p></p></div>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-70270728265834547202023-01-01T06:10:00.002-07:002023-01-01T06:10:34.396-07:00I have not forgotten about my blog...<p> I've just been really, really, busy, and I've been forced to prioritize my free time.<br /><br /> I have loads of pictures I need to upload to this clunky, obsolete platform through its clunky, obsolete web interface... and I've been telling myself pictures are worth a thousand words, so I have been waiting to upload the pics and therefore not writing any words. </p><p>current efforts:<br /><br />(workshop)<br />1. moisture extraction system for air compressor<br />2. The 'Surgical Style' Work Light</p><p>(3D printing)<br />1. a metal housing for the electronic parts of the<br /> temperature control system I designed for the<br /> printer's environmental enclosure<br />2. finishing setup of an OctoPrint (R-Pi) & webcam,<br /> just waiting on a longer camera cable now<br />3. new all-metal heatbreak, currently waiting for it to<br /> arrive<br />4. waiting for 5VDC isolator connector to arrive<br /> (for USB connection between Raspberry Pi & Ender 3V2)</p><p> </p><p> For the moment, I am more focused on the 3DP efforts than the shop stuff because frankly, it's just more interesting. <br /><br /> Plus, I've had the printer up and dialed in to what's considered "good enough" for most people (judging from other people's calcubes, benchies, etc) and various minor upgrades and work on the work area have kept the printer from running for a while now, so I'm pretty eager to wrap up this upgrade session and go back to printing to see how much difference the upgrades (mainly the heatbreak and controled-temperature tent) will make on my prints.<br /></p><p> Funny thing about 3D printing: it takes a long time. So if you're really into it, keeping the printer up and actually printing is important. So that's been chaffing at me; I got stuff I wanna MAKE!<br /><br /> Secondarily, if you're a noob like me, and/or you're not made of money, knowing that the currently running print is still, yanno, <i>printing</i>, and not making spaghettini, is a pretty big deal. I don't want to leave a print looking good, go to work, and come home nine hours later to find that it all went to hell five minutes after I walked out the door, and I've just wasted a pound of filament -- <i>oh wait I've already done that once. <br /><br /></i>So... I'm really looking forward to having the webcam available, assuming I can convince myself that the camera and printer controls can be placed on the web without compromising the security of my home network... I haven't made up my mind about that yet.<br /><br />And that's where I'm at. Pictures and more words to follow when I get another moment.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-71304701157633421482022-10-24T09:06:00.005-06:002022-10-24T09:08:06.459-06:00Inkzall™ markers are no joke (an uncompensated endorsement)<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-pTCJYj6GmOTDOCbFBVBE_iKwbsZs6WK88UQSdhzB8-fLxoP6Fs29lzoMCpnCClY9FLT3wtpMb7Zoqq8P-OgKdcmDu6lTpOsd7pzBUlJ2uk475VA29VL33oNqEXgPJchIY23bmVdrKNtRzXJV9k2ksB8p-v6JAb8yJzSBmMEDvvVK0zoZQFL9Bwt9/s1024/IMG_1971.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-pTCJYj6GmOTDOCbFBVBE_iKwbsZs6WK88UQSdhzB8-fLxoP6Fs29lzoMCpnCClY9FLT3wtpMb7Zoqq8P-OgKdcmDu6lTpOsd7pzBUlJ2uk475VA29VL33oNqEXgPJchIY23bmVdrKNtRzXJV9k2ksB8p-v6JAb8yJzSBmMEDvvVK0zoZQFL9Bwt9/w150-h200/IMG_1971.JPG" width="150" /></a></div> This is an unsolicited plug for Milwaukee brand InkZall™ markers, which arrived on the market making two promises:<p></p><p><br />#1, the marks won't fade (I'm testing that in the sun vs. a Sharpie right this very minute - but it'll take a few weeks/months) <br /></p><p>#2, they will make a permanent mark on almost all hard-to-mark surfaces which give other products trouble, the classic example being oily / greasy metal.<br /></p> So far I have tested Inkzall markers on oily metal fresh from the mill, rusty metal (not fresh) from the scrap yard, glass, and silicone rubber.<br /><p> I stopped there, because I ran out of surfaces which I've ever had trouble marking with a Sharpie, and the Inkzall does all of them.<br /></p><p></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuqNqucxB45iv0Aveh6nPoisdgnRPQGmYINf2yjFb3V9YD027NGZlgonGq4bjQkQjXvyoirS3D63mKOn7Wn0WZmfeUlK3U3SvN2F-Rxulc5J5jfSYCteRZCnpw_IgsBuk8idyiE5d2xBJCE7F2b4b3dBWZDmTf5hbfjIBRtjhnem6vz46nQB0Xmro1/s1024/IMG_1970.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuqNqucxB45iv0Aveh6nPoisdgnRPQGmYINf2yjFb3V9YD027NGZlgonGq4bjQkQjXvyoirS3D63mKOn7Wn0WZmfeUlK3U3SvN2F-Rxulc5J5jfSYCteRZCnpw_IgsBuk8idyiE5d2xBJCE7F2b4b3dBWZDmTf5hbfjIBRtjhnem6vz46nQB0Xmro1/w150-h200/IMG_1970.JPG" width="150" /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></a></div><p> In all fairness, some markers do glass just fine namely, most solvent-based markers. I've seen loads of markers that make clear marks on glass.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhv4FQ5K610zUlpy-EJMFV2DLad9A1HdabnG0NazbXAXOMVqfBtLL2aTiMmTWhyCn5iTS1B9ai4IHNEgZb-yBl04RGdcYETut6cCNUcQgAz0kIcDmrse7CPIOJsp0UEZxsHNh6T50QTYsBK-Xif_XwN8CBki3BEnTVT1wNBrRXKcHyKWE6mXdUYcC/s1024/IMG_1969.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhv4FQ5K610zUlpy-EJMFV2DLad9A1HdabnG0NazbXAXOMVqfBtLL2aTiMmTWhyCn5iTS1B9ai4IHNEgZb-yBl04RGdcYETut6cCNUcQgAz0kIcDmrse7CPIOJsp0UEZxsHNh6T50QTYsBK-Xif_XwN8CBki3BEnTVT1wNBrRXKcHyKWE6mXdUYcC/w150-h200/IMG_1969.JPG" width="150" /></a> Wax was the one surface I thought would be hardest to make a clean, non-beading mark on. Guess not... yeah, I couldn't remember the name of the markers - it has worn off of the two that I have when I made the photo...<br /></div><p> There is one other little feature of interest to those who wear hard hats: the marker's clip was designed specifically to clip onto the brim of a hard had neatly.<br /><br /> Of course, the extra performance doesn't come for free: these things run about five dollars apiece, which is I think somewhere around twice the price of Sharpies. </p><p> I think they're impressive, but I probably wouldn't be using them if not for the fact I can get them at a discount. :)<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-88002348439104927882022-09-04T12:37:00.005-06:002022-09-18T07:40:51.987-06:00catching up, Part Two, Episode Nine, Book Six Rides Again...<p>Mr. Prongy over there is what one does when one needs to solder four brass bearing surfaces to the inside of a square tube.<br /><br />(As soon as you heat the tube to install the next one, one or more of the others melt and fall off or move.)<br /><br />Using a shop-made tool†, the procedure is merely slightly fiddly:<br /></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>generously tin 4 inside surfaces</li><li>generously tin the bottoms of 4 brass bearings</li><li>using your preternatural manual dexterity, place all four bearings in place, using the tool to hold them.<br /> (note: the author lies, he soldered two of them in place first before he realized he was stuck and would need a tool, so now it will be much easier than the above. -- sincerely, the author's other hemisphere)</li><li>apply heat until everything settles into place under spring* pressure</li></ol><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;">Goddammit, Blogger.com, why are you like this?!? <img height="320" src="https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/710662658571108422/1016050597201448961/IMG_1880.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="240" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator"><span style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: inherit; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><p style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> <span face="Whitney, "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgba(4, 4, 5, 0.07); display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: break-spaces; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">* "springy", LOL, yeah right! This is A36 structural steel, it has forgotten what carbon ever felt like, so good luck actually making it springy, temperoid, hardish, etc. The fingers were springy enough to do the job once I cut them 2X as long as I thought they needed to be...<br /><br />† took me, oh, 30min of actual labor I suppose - not including a break or three. Not a lot of time for a project taking many man-days of labor<br /></span></span></span></p></span></div><div class="separator"></div>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-91403904627894985422022-07-21T13:02:00.001-06:002022-07-21T13:02:33.315-06:00can't work, can't type<p> Having trouble getting started in the shop again, for a variety of reasons including being desperately broke nerve impingement, arthritis, and tendonitis issues, heat, and other domestic problems.<br /><br /> Can't easily create posts or even use the computer for more than a few minutes at a time, same reasons.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-12906444483058301742022-06-22T12:09:00.005-06:002022-06-22T12:09:58.223-06:00well, this is awkward...<p> Blogger.com, which is to say, Google, lied to me. So here's the thing: this blogging platform provides quite a lot of statistics about visitors to the blog, including per-post granularity.<br /><br /> And the stats page has been telling me for months that nobody was reading a damned thing I wrote. So, I felt I was wasting my time.<br /></p><p> So now I have some human feedback telling me that - shock, surprise! - Google's shit is broke here too, just like search, just like YouTube...<br /><br /> I have plenty of trivia I could write about, but virtually none of it is particularly important or note-worthy, with the possible exception of an upgrade to my surgical-style shop light, which is finally getting the ceiling mount it needs, so that the @#$^)* salvaged Ikea Stolmen post - to which it was formerly attached - can get the hell out of the middle of the shop...<br /><br /> Well, I'm pleased that anyone is getting anything of value at all out of all this blather. Both I and my other half are recovering from various hurts, so it may be a while before much more appears here...<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-87289114046266654382022-05-15T10:26:00.005-06:002022-10-24T09:09:01.085-06:00no more readers?<p> I see no point in continuing this solitary masturbation.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-87274794143796499442022-04-26T09:36:00.009-06:002022-06-14T07:54:49.920-06:00The Vehicle Flashlight<p> ahem: flashlights (oi, electric torches) for the car glovebox...<br /> (classic problems solved... but w/ money, as usual)<br /><br />problem: <br />• many folks keep a flashlight in the glovebox or trunk of their vehicle.<br /> This is sensible and good.<br /><br />• vehicle environments are tough on cheap flashlights, tending to destroy<br /> cheap housings, damage/scratch up the lens, vibration may break<br /> filament-based bulbs (still shipping in some otherwise good flashlights!),<br /> they aren't bright enough, they don't last very long, and worst of all, both<br /> time and temperature will reliably destroy the batteries so that when you<br /> finally need that light, rather desperately, five years later, by the side of<br /> the road at 3AM in the rain... it's as dead as "post-rock".<br /><br />• solution: <br /> - for the housing, buy the least expensive, 2-cell D-size Maglite (Mag <br /> Instruments), one that comes with an <i>incandescent</i> bulb, <i>not</i> their newer<br /> LED-based junk. Why? The body is all we care about, and we're going<br /> to replace the bulb no matter what, and this is the cheapest way to get<br /> the body.<br /><br /> - replace the lens with a '<i>toughened glass'</i>, <i>anti-scratch coated</i> replacement<br /> lens from whoever - mine came from Weltool<br /><br /> - replace the bulb with an established, name-brand, LED upgrade of <i>at least</i><br /> 3 watts, (5 is better). I think I bught mine from Nite-Ize, not sure; MAKE<br /> CERTAIN TO USE A LAMP THAT WILL RUN ON FOUR CELLS, ie;<br /> SIX VOLTS<br /><br /> - replace the batteries with 3V Lithium Thionyl Chloride (LiSOCl2) primary<br /> cells from Saft, Tadiran (German), or Tenergy (discount line made by Saft,<br /> nearly as good, and somewhat cheaper) - these cost $13 - $25 EACH. <br /> Although they are not rechargeable, they store ≈ 4X the energy of the best<br /> alkaline primary cells, in addition to their other wonderful properties.<br /><br /> The resulting torch will not self-discharge appreciably for ten years, regardless of temperature cycles. I have personally used the Saft branded batteries for SAR ground truth tags and remote nvironmental data acquisition sensor kits which went in both desert and glacier environments, in uninsulated Pelican cases, left in place for months to years!<br /><br /> The bulb will be much brighter and more efficient, using less current, than Mag's own LED bulbs.<br /><br /> The glass lens will not get scratched up from rolling around with the other junk in your glovebox or trunk for six years before you finally need it.<br /><br /> As for the body, Mag makes a REALLY good housing for the money. Only way to get something better is to spend 4X as much on the body for incremental improvements.<br /><br /> I once left a 4-cell D size Mag lite on the hood of a jeep (it was dark) I noticed I'd done so when we pulled out onto the highway again, and it rolled off at about 25 - 35 MPH and endo'd on the pavement 3 - 4 times... worked fine when I picked it up, (they used plastic lenses back then which did not break, but would scratch from a stern look) and only had cosmetic dings on the edges of the lamp housing and end cap. If you're paranoid, the end cap will hold a spare LED bulb just as well as it does the spare junk bulb that comes with it from the factory.</p><p> There is, unfortunately, one remaining and glaring defect of the Mag torches which neither they, nor I, nor the internet community, have a solution for, and the reason for this situation is named Anthony Maglica, the owner and founder of Mag Instrument, whose policy it is to sue, in court if necessary, genuinely and aggressively, anyone who makes an accessory that interacts with Mag's patented features.</p><p> It's that damned, miserable reflector, which results in an absolutely HORRID beam, something quite below today's widely accepted standards. The reflector needs to be changed to an "orange peel" surface to fix this, and Mag doesn't think it's important enough. But the reflector has a patented cam feature which, acting against the sliding, spring-loaded (and patented, ahem) lamp holder, provide a desirable focusing feature, permitting the operator to have a wife flood shitty beam of light, or a tight and narrow shitty beam of light.</p><p> Anyone who has brought to market an orange peel replacement which has the angled rear stub / cam surface to activate the focus feature has received a C&D letter, and one accessory manufacturer was taken into court and sued out of existence. So if you decide you would much rather go with another brand of housing on moral ground, I certainly cannot blame you. Mag doesn't care about users.</p><p> There seem to be some reflectors which don't focus, which might fit, it's hard to tell, since the sellers can't even use the NAME or say that it FITS "Mag Lites" or anything similar, or... Cease And Desist! </p><p> I have no tested solution for this issue, yet. My own torch still has the shit factory reflector.</p><p> Some folks have said that a stock reflector may be hand-spattered judiciously with clear acrylic spray, using a small brush and flicking the liquid, or just carefully spritzing with a spray can, to achieve a fake (and sub-optimal, vs. a mirror-coated surface) "orange peel" surface. This sounds reasonable, but I need to buy a plain, legit, replacement Mag reflector first, in case it doesn't work out well.</p><p> As, if, and when, I'll probably make a small post about the success of failure of same.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-64837648636784940272022-03-31T14:31:00.002-06:002022-03-31T14:31:39.971-06:00patting my younger self on the back (even though he only got a C+ or a B-)<p> When I was in high school metal shop, for my senior year project (or one of them, I don't recall) a few of us built belt sanders, from scratch. Now, when I say from scratch, I don't mean we made our own ball bearings or motors or sanding belts. Don't be silly. But we did make both the top and bottom pulleys from scratch: we turned them on a lathe after cutting disk from billets we had cast under Mr. Lurie's watchful eye in the shop foundry from recycled cans and VW engine scrap from the auto shop.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBGXOiDVShne2j-xf0s00UAsQIdjZh65NL5jKcX5FUDzvijqL8x_Nesiva3VFtP9_ciB_lTadXAr1CcQTT82YeuArQjvn04e6QoG6qm6kL3PUMvH7r5TZ2nzwU0KrK1FLq1WifefAPDGYp8GiEi5hWI7FhMfRQV3uVCdwHjFf3e0gdR5TzbM9JN2xr/s1024/IMG_1580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBGXOiDVShne2j-xf0s00UAsQIdjZh65NL5jKcX5FUDzvijqL8x_Nesiva3VFtP9_ciB_lTadXAr1CcQTT82YeuArQjvn04e6QoG6qm6kL3PUMvH7r5TZ2nzwU0KrK1FLq1WifefAPDGYp8GiEi5hWI7FhMfRQV3uVCdwHjFf3e0gdR5TzbM9JN2xr/s320/IMG_1580.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><p></p><p> We bent plate steel and stick-welded it to make the frame. And so on. That's what I mean by "from scratch".</p><p> It was a pretty dope school project for a high schooler, now that I think about it.</p><p></p><p>Now, the backing plate which went behind the belt was supposed to be TIG
welded in place, because using stick would warp the 1/8" material too
badly. No student I ever knew managed to get TIG qualified somehow, so
in theory, Mr. Lurie, the instructor, was supposed to do that one weld
for us.<br /><br /> Somehow, he was always too busy working on his airplane project to get
that part welded on mine.</p><p> Also, I never got around to putting on any
top coat, only primer, because I was busy working on Mr. Lurie's fucking
air plane.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz_WqOdNFb6gieK31PBjQjKt66sM5xq8tj1xuVMfnKdkUHeVQLzFC2VzZTNQ-LXLfUfQeI-lgrVraU_1KpIvJnLMKkKv05r3OuKrdAsAm4OLW4GHI-byhumOwIy4POdbFtoScc9PlQuB8YwKJkvLenux9R7W5YqjrxBY81I1T7Hsu3BywYM54oLVUc/s1024/IMG_1578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz_WqOdNFb6gieK31PBjQjKt66sM5xq8tj1xuVMfnKdkUHeVQLzFC2VzZTNQ-LXLfUfQeI-lgrVraU_1KpIvJnLMKkKv05r3OuKrdAsAm4OLW4GHI-byhumOwIy4POdbFtoScc9PlQuB8YwKJkvLenux9R7W5YqjrxBY81I1T7Hsu3BywYM54oLVUc/s320/IMG_1578.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p> So because it was incomplete, I got either a B- or a C+ for the project (I
don't recall which) and it wasn't even my fault! Oh, I was mortally
outraged, I was. Then I was mad at myself for not seeing it coming.<br /></p><p> But
here's the thing; it is now forty years later, and I used that same belt sander again
yesterday. Not a week goes by that I don't use it for something,
unless I am sick in bed. It has been one of the best gifts I ever gave
myself. It is fucking indestructible.<br /></p> And it still only has primer paint on it, but I did just
order some new rubber feet for it. I noticed last week that the ones I
installed 40 years ago are really showing their age...<p style="text-align: center;"> -={0}=-</p><p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiprJWysS-jMq4IyJdm78p5RE94HDmIUJzc0-kKedS8LOwb7l6VcZ52M26vOs9z1X7D1wJZ_PDP_duCktG4sE8hIgPa4vvDFMpoJ4DDMy57XbQD9P-pLesc2X2dBfKqkKgsjrzq-JGkVHaHIOBncBOsE1rb1GU32baMO7Vjl6Q8VuGU-Y_e2M2KcfRJ/s1024/IMG_1583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiprJWysS-jMq4IyJdm78p5RE94HDmIUJzc0-kKedS8LOwb7l6VcZ52M26vOs9z1X7D1wJZ_PDP_duCktG4sE8hIgPa4vvDFMpoJ4DDMy57XbQD9P-pLesc2X2dBfKqkKgsjrzq-JGkVHaHIOBncBOsE1rb1GU32baMO7Vjl6Q8VuGU-Y_e2M2KcfRJ/s320/IMG_1583.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><-- the upper pulley holder is just two straps with notches slotted into each other. A compression spring inside the square tube riser keeps the belt tight.</p><p> You can't hurt the top pulley by using it as a contact wheel, but it's solid aluminum, not soft, so it's not friendly toward delicate work.</p><p> Note crown angle on pulley to help belt stay centered.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5EhN8wnrIy9OsktqkqDhrLc0so22nfMBJrw_lzz5Fb5ieuVhFMwY116RoJmELREBm4AkFsPPcu2aVhOcgXY-_VQ10gaN-gWKNvAQIxSuwk1ZispItJ8YBQRKY99yGeAF5gRL-RDE9qxJzx60PciRX8GdqSvJFis3yJGEw8RoCKCiOMv1NxNo4gS9I/s1024/IMG_1582.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5EhN8wnrIy9OsktqkqDhrLc0so22nfMBJrw_lzz5Fb5ieuVhFMwY116RoJmELREBm4AkFsPPcu2aVhOcgXY-_VQ10gaN-gWKNvAQIxSuwk1ZispItJ8YBQRKY99yGeAF5gRL-RDE9qxJzx60PciRX8GdqSvJFis3yJGEw8RoCKCiOMv1NxNo4gS9I/s320/IMG_1582.JPG" width="240" /></a></div> Side shot of top pulley support showing simple construction from .125 x .7 cold-rolled strap.<p></p><p> Mr. Lurie must have sold us pretty damned good dust-sealed bearings for those top pulleys, because they are still quiet and smooth.</p><p> I wonder how many of my fellow students who built these over the years, kept them their entire lives, all the way into their retirement?<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MObSREO9Mb0n4JH5m4oLKStv9jU99WDY_4mVqrZryUZ4BFpRG41qrsvNWc_0ZWPTC1B-oE2fAKZRvARMHSmkDlL_4ms9zwlIOm-cMtZPnjMY63NsOzNGSx4i7mMvAffjOm613yXJrlP92QfWQjx7W8nUzp76EFIfaWK5WKM7-V2EFr_ilgy7G0DQ/s1024/IMG_1581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MObSREO9Mb0n4JH5m4oLKStv9jU99WDY_4mVqrZryUZ4BFpRG41qrsvNWc_0ZWPTC1B-oE2fAKZRvARMHSmkDlL_4ms9zwlIOm-cMtZPnjMY63NsOzNGSx4i7mMvAffjOm613yXJrlP92QfWQjx7W8nUzp76EFIfaWK5WKM7-V2EFr_ilgy7G0DQ/s320/IMG_1581.JPG" width="240" /></a></div> Hey, we were rank amateurs at casting, and the "aluminum" was a really random mixture of stuff, so there were a few casting defects in our pulleys... but we did use actual top and bottom steel mold casings, "green sand" mix, a wooden form to make the billet, sprues, parting compound, all that. Pounded the sand in ourselves, and so on.<p></p><p> In 1976, when I entered Peoria High School, Peoria, Illinois, a student could graduate after taking metal or auto shop for four years, and go straight into a well-paid professional apprenticeship in any number of local large businesses.</p><p> By the time I came home on leave from the USAF in 1981, one year after I graduated, not one of those jobs remained in existence.</p><p> The midwest was a good place to be FROM...<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-51329154189304062072022-03-20T11:50:00.005-06:002022-03-20T11:59:53.182-06:00A Poor-Man's Skyhook<p> A few years ago, I suffered some serious muscle strains in my lower back and glutes, which gave me a temporary bout of sciatica and scared the crap out of me.</p><p> The injury happened when I lifted - single-handedly, the twelve-inch Bridgeport rotary table off of my mill table. It weighs 130 pounds. Oooops. <br /></p><p></p><div style="text-align: right;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv4eCLsme0Qy7V7NVAyfrF3el0ZjAmNt0BeWjDu2PViL44tTJ3XXCGE7eQXuH24Zz_rq0OLu6aWQ_RvZSqzWkW5Y2VXzhqUamSJ7xWN3OkDu9xr1lDSFOe9-qd783kb5HtQLx1H0LbQ7bEIUV74oeodTGKleBg2DzhICqE8V8czBtvF_aOkOiLY1f1/s600/1218658-21.webp" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv4eCLsme0Qy7V7NVAyfrF3el0ZjAmNt0BeWjDu2PViL44tTJ3XXCGE7eQXuH24Zz_rq0OLu6aWQ_RvZSqzWkW5Y2VXzhqUamSJ7xWN3OkDu9xr1lDSFOe9-qd783kb5HtQLx1H0LbQ7bEIUV74oeodTGKleBg2DzhICqE8V8czBtvF_aOkOiLY1f1/w200-h200/1218658-21.webp" width="200" /></a></div> When I recovered enough that I could sit up in a chair in front of my computer again - or stand up, or walk - I started shopping for material handling solutions for this kind of lifting that I could apply in my small, cramped shop.<p></p><p> The first thing I found was the SkyHook, and to be sure it is a thing of beauty and a joy forever.<br /></p><p> It also costs thousands of dollars, and thats <i>just</i> for the little yellow crane, before you even get into additional accessories like the cart, or attachments to mount the crane post to the tool post of a lathe, or to the t-slots of a mill table...<br /></p><p> Don't get me wrong, I've seen these in action in videos, it is clearly a nice tool if you can afford it, and when this topic came up between me and a good friend of mine who has money, I suggested he buy one.</p><p> But my budget is more beer than champagne, so decided to build one.</p><p> What I will end up with will not be as easy to use, or as smooth in adjusting of the height. Mine won't have the chain feature (instead of cable) which prevents the load from twisting - a nice feature. Mine will automatically brake the load, because I am using a cheap electric hoist instead of a fancy gearbox, friction clutch, and handwheel.</p><p> Mine will also cost less than $200 all up, because I already had the cart, the high-weight-capacity expensive casters I needed just - showed up - in the alley one day (I kid you not) the hoist was about $100, and the additional steel bits I need are much less than $100. In fact, I have all of the steel and parts except the vertical piece of pipe, plus whatever I come up with to go over the pipe and swivel on it (with a thrust bearing).</p><p> The rig will look something like this:<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrADEra43Kj9IgezmwaLBqOCy-gogt4R2SlMu-6j0KdY1FjLDJTjFzWaQgJ_pe7SKC_q3Z-6UARoS5ie6we_N6BsKzrhKvoltmsCFo0c_9zUq-Pczwjj1Wq6VBuM8t_I2g1ooBZrDZpl02jNCa8hX5BCtHHcMABaMsJeayY91QfgIHKtMumzkq1GZ0/s1024/IMG_1558.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrADEra43Kj9IgezmwaLBqOCy-gogt4R2SlMu-6j0KdY1FjLDJTjFzWaQgJ_pe7SKC_q3Z-6UARoS5ie6we_N6BsKzrhKvoltmsCFo0c_9zUq-Pczwjj1Wq6VBuM8t_I2g1ooBZrDZpl02jNCa8hX5BCtHHcMABaMsJeayY91QfgIHKtMumzkq1GZ0/s320/IMG_1558.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> The jib extends 24" from center, or 12" past the edge of the 24" wide cart. With some weight in the bottom, I shouldn't need to extend the casters on the hoist end on out-riggers, to lift any tool (or likely work) I can think of - I am unlikely to work on anything that approaches the weight limit of the hoist.<br /><br /> Some time next week I will run out to my favorite scrap metal yard and buy the vertical bit. A standard corner post for chainlink fence would be the right material, except that it's heavily galvanized and I need to weld on this, so I need tubing or black pipe. The good news is that plain carbon steel is cheap, because right now, so am I.<br />Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-23393247175715550262022-03-16T11:36:00.004-06:002022-06-22T12:11:58.744-06:00cheaper welding gloves, some words on the air compressor mounting, and... can we talk about workbench design & use??<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDLLazPffHb58xInSp01POjZVHSZw2YQvYrpQ4wAn0IfUg_cs1F1PSmDMbCsw3KZOjjK-k5gfrm2aWNOIdDT1WALz7LHCbLkM2lDZzUi4C7JbBIIOqycpyVjmd1fQq7ojrQ29i4bwNXY9F6Cje8Ju2p3dILcuv7-td59pB7n-1WAZXCHX4YbFz-sVn=s1024" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDLLazPffHb58xInSp01POjZVHSZw2YQvYrpQ4wAn0IfUg_cs1F1PSmDMbCsw3KZOjjK-k5gfrm2aWNOIdDT1WALz7LHCbLkM2lDZzUi4C7JbBIIOqycpyVjmd1fQq7ojrQ29i4bwNXY9F6Cje8Ju2p3dILcuv7-td59pB7n-1WAZXCHX4YbFz-sVn=w150-h200" width="150" /></a></div> Welding gloves: the heavy insulated suede ones suitable for heavy stick welding are kinda stiff and fatiguing when you're doing MIG or TIG which doesn't throw much, or as much, slag. On the plus side, they are cheap - about $20 - $30.<p></p><p> For those who do not need as much protection, there are nice, lighter-weight, calf-skin or goat-skin gloves with long gauntlets, commonly called "MIG gloves or "TIG gloves" available from welding suppliers for $50 - $75.</p><p> The first time I saw these was when I took an introductory MIG welding class from my local welding supplies vendor (the intro class came free with the purchase of my welding machine) and the instructor was wearing them. I promptly sought them out.<br /></p><p> It turns out there are IDENTICAL calf-skin and goat-skin "rose gauntlets" available from garden stores and suppliers for $25 - $35. Perhaps they are not sewn with kevlar thread, but I've yet to care. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh3MGEhsfvHfJKm14ZIX2uEPkAJTuP6TWHa3UkE-7AWz-sZ-AbvV6hmq8jLzj0rt9Z793jafiFGRo-prVkk6-sMEgEcOo9TznEeo4On53tTK3BvVQTinrivn6fZ_LKkSVCz5A5Ry6j3y1Il9JaRmqD1LPM88ZpmYl0pze7WXZMxw-6uYbEM_EIeCcR2=s1024" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="832" data-original-width="1024" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh3MGEhsfvHfJKm14ZIX2uEPkAJTuP6TWHa3UkE-7AWz-sZ-AbvV6hmq8jLzj0rt9Z793jafiFGRo-prVkk6-sMEgEcOo9TznEeo4On53tTK3BvVQTinrivn6fZ_LKkSVCz5A5Ry6j3y1Il9JaRmqD1LPM88ZpmYl0pze7WXZMxw-6uYbEM_EIeCcR2=w200-h163" width="200" /></a></div> Now then, some final words on how I mounted my air compressor, since I just yesterday finished doing so. Industry standard calls for some rubber pads between the unit and the floor, but I went a little further, because I was - justifiably as it turned out - concerned about vibration being conducted into the concrete pad of the garage... and thence to my wife's office / treatment room.<br /><br /> To that end, I added rubber washers between the bolts and the legs, and a second set of pads and rubber washers between the elevation stand and the floor as shown in the photos. <br /><p></p><p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjzoupidrZyhEuOsCQq7b2VUMHryxvO58vxCjJRQt_TjdQtPW2EyCqNucN4bSozelP67Wm9HsxC9mpNwuUM2_3q5pdRZOWZhMQzd1eDt68TZjN7YY052cf-KV95HfE8EHyoEepkPfWQxYSMQWopcZ7YtThFzCTwjfkqoJTRg2NIgK_7FAl1YiPynVEz=s1024" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="878" data-original-width="1024" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjzoupidrZyhEuOsCQq7b2VUMHryxvO58vxCjJRQt_TjdQtPW2EyCqNucN4bSozelP67Wm9HsxC9mpNwuUM2_3q5pdRZOWZhMQzd1eDt68TZjN7YY052cf-KV95HfE8EHyoEepkPfWQxYSMQWopcZ7YtThFzCTwjfkqoJTRg2NIgK_7FAl1YiPynVEz=w200-h171" width="200" /></a></p><p> This turns out to not be overkill at all. While no vibration is detectable in the cement floor next to the compressor, I found out shortly after installing that resonance in the slab means there are places far away from it where vibration in the floor is quite noticeable. If I hadn't been a Tesla nut back in the day, it might not have occurred to me to even check.<br /></p><p> That vibration - at the worst point in the garage I could find, which blessedly was not in or near my wife's office as it turned out - was measurably less (accelerometer app on the phone!) after installing the second set of rubber blivets between the riser and the compressor, vs. only having the set between the riser and the floor.<br /></p><p> Locking nuts were used so I could leave the rubber minimally compressed while preventing anything from moving. The rubber means the compressor can be tilted off vertical by about five degrees, until you run into the steel bolts and washers and it won't move any further for love nor money; the anchor bolts in the floor are set <i>firm</i>. I am entirely okay with this state of affairs.<br /></p><p> Frankly, the readily-available "industry standard" black rubber pads are much too firm for the weight of my air compressor - softer ones would do a better job of absorbing and dampening out low-frequency vibrations... but they are what's available for reasonable sums of money (about $4ea) and they are an improvement over nothing.<br /></p><p><i><b>EDIT, much later: cable-type vibration/seismic mounts would not have been overkill for this project, but they weren't in the budget. Soaking up large-amplitude, low-frequency vibrations is <u>hard</u>.</b></i><br /></p><p> And finally, I'm gonna yammer briefly about how my perception and use of workbenches has changed.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjR7Gw6IJF0RM0g2iGW0c43qIbprKavlZASJNTRKt35KeL3oIW7qYrBUAYEOjYW-ViPVtHkJ_pslM9ZGC4-FdfAxNBs5qVN-F6-troBmvQ3JXQXKlfiEC-xiqZDiFMgJUdl9zeqaZapCoG6QIudVXP0fXp4vTIzzUYJkUUr5RWUqU0hWggUX_r0QnyP=s1024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjR7Gw6IJF0RM0g2iGW0c43qIbprKavlZASJNTRKt35KeL3oIW7qYrBUAYEOjYW-ViPVtHkJ_pslM9ZGC4-FdfAxNBs5qVN-F6-troBmvQ3JXQXKlfiEC-xiqZDiFMgJUdl9zeqaZapCoG6QIudVXP0fXp4vTIzzUYJkUUr5RWUqU0hWggUX_r0QnyP=s320" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p> This is the only real workbench I have ever owned. I still use it to this day because it is an indestructible beast. However, when I built it, I owned fewer hand tools, and it seemed reasonable to make the back of the bench out of pegboard, so I could hang and organize my hand tools all over it.</p><p> Even after I acquired enough tools that I had to buy a small tool chest - well, it seemed large at the time - it made sense to me to keep the most-frequently-used tools on the bench pegboard where they'd be handy.</p><p> Eventually I needed more storage, and the upgrade path for people with money would be to buy the rolling cart and two-drawer riser which matched my machinist's chest. But since those were very expensive, I used a slowly-distintegrating wooden chest of drawers - found free in some rental - for over twenty years.</p><p> Finally that nasty old thing became more of a liability than an asset, so when I received a small inheritance of a few thousands bucks from my mom's old bank accounts, I bought a full-sized (well okay, it's fucking enormous) proper professional's tool box to solve my growing organization and storage problem once and for all.<br /></p><p> And then I moved all my tools off the pegboard and into the tool chest because I wanted all my tools in one place to the extent practical.</p><p> The moment I stared at the empty pegboard and wondered what I ought to do with all that new space, I immediately realized that I wish it to be a magnetic white-board with a hard enamel surface where I could put up drawings and notes, and that this would be TREMENDOUSLY useful, in fact, it would have been more useful than having the tools there all along, but hindsight is a real thing.</p><p> So that's the new plan, when I get around to it, and can find the white-board material already made. Not a high priority tho.</p><p> One thing I do want to store at the bench - specifically, on the riser shelf above the bench surface - is fasteners. I'm fairly certain I want to remove the fastener storage currently on the pegboard. And I'm fairly certain I'm sick of walking back and forth from my shop to the storage drawers in the garage where most of my fasteners are currently stashed for lack of space in the shop.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3020393817907678484.post-38238241056589859942022-03-12T10:43:00.003-07:002022-06-22T12:00:38.529-06:00sanity-preserving tool #314,159<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi57dcQAImzts3HDkj8DhNANHlb6nedUWdjpcJkeWuNVdt43rlOkfcqy-j6zS0PmOSOYcostViLnqznT0A9F5LovUEypT_P8j3xen79M6XQv4jKejI0DNFpjyoChhuLuWNJ5CrTP0MCqoYmU7iU96H66LAEKUSPFn-pXWbyIglYN2mAhpoC2FtQSAvK=s1024" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi57dcQAImzts3HDkj8DhNANHlb6nedUWdjpcJkeWuNVdt43rlOkfcqy-j6zS0PmOSOYcostViLnqznT0A9F5LovUEypT_P8j3xen79M6XQv4jKejI0DNFpjyoChhuLuWNJ5CrTP0MCqoYmU7iU96H66LAEKUSPFn-pXWbyIglYN2mAhpoC2FtQSAvK=s320" width="240" /></a></div> These are internal pipe wrenches. Ever wished you could remove a close nipple from another fitting without destroying the threads on it? Ever had a pipe snap off at a fitting, necessitating the removal of the short, thin threaded section from the female fitting... somehow? At minimum this tool solves those two edge conditions for you. <p></p><p> My general rule on specialty tools is that if I "wish I had", or if I actually need to borrow or rent some tool more than twice in a year (give or take, depending on what it is, how expensive, etc) then I buy it*. Three times in the past six months I found myself wanting to remove and preserve pipe nipples, and a few years back I struggled to remove a broken pipe-end from an in-situ fitting. It was time. They should cost less than $10 each.<br /><i><b><br />addendum, much later: get several sizes. If you get one to work but it's a bit too small, you may find yourself pounding it out of the removed nipple with a vice and a hammer. Apparently I need at least two more (larger) sizes than the onces I got at a national chain store where I moonlighted a few years back.</b></i><br /></p><p>____________________________________________<br />*within reason; use common sense and don't quibble.<br /></p>Railgaphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14209269236242886628noreply@blogger.com0