Friday, May 22, 2026

science! (of sweetening one's tea and coffee)

 Ever since I was a young person, I have believed that how I stir sugar into my coffee is faster than how most people stir sugar into their coffee, all other things being equal.  It's a casual idiosyncrasy, I haven't talked much about it, I must have thousands.  I felt it was self-evident once explained, but I never really looked into it.  If I investigated every trivial thing like that, I'd never get anything else done. ;D

 I was today years old when I looked in google scholar a bit, learned what the experts call things and which fields of study were most applicable.  There were plenty of hits and what really shut me down was a very old Royal Society paper that came up; this (stirring and particle dissolution efficiency) is not a new field of study.

 And it turns out that yes, I'm right... and it was well-understood a century ago. >_<

 Okay, okay, I'll stop teasing... but I think reviewing the basic theory is actually a good idea;

 If a soluble particle sits in a solute and starts to dissolve without moving at all, a zone of higher concentration (of the particle in the solute) will build up around the particle, and slow down dissolution.  Right.  That's why we stir.  If there is motion between fluid and particle, that zone gets swept away, exposing the particle to fresh, low-concentration solute. 

The greater the relative motion, the faster the particle is dissolved.

 It should be further evident that particles entrained by a flow will have lower relative velocity than particles in chaotic or constantly reversing flow.

 And so, instead of stirring one's spoon in a constant circular motion, reverse the motion of your spoon every 180ΒΊ.  This appears to create more chaotic flow than moving it back and forth linearly, too.

 That's it, that's all I got today, I think.  Science so easy a child could do it and almost certainly has.
I wish there was a master index of all Science Fair™ projects ever. ;)

Going through a bit of a rough patch right now, not working in the shop very much.

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

Friday, May 15, 2026

update; big dial indicator

 I took off the back and found the guts were clean; none of the cruft from the dial side had made it through the pointer hole.

 Note the plunger passes all the way through the indicator body; if I had more parts (rare) the other end of the plunger could be used for lifting the probe end, for example on a comparator setup on a mini-plate.

 Somewhere in that stack of jewels and gears is the reason the pointer won't return to zero reliably.  Somewhere in Colorado is someone who knows how to fix that.  Somewhere on YouTube there is likely to be a video (Blondihacks I think) on DIY repairs.

 I did some digging on services. Apparently almost nobody just replaces crystals.  Most shops have a flat fee which covers everything you could want, including a clean-lube-adjust (or whatever - do these things get lubrication? I wonder) and replacing the crystal.  This is $25 - $50 for one unit, possible discounts might obtain if you have a box of them.  Traceable cal not included.

 Well crud.  That's starting to make this indicator an expensive one.  All right then... on the one hand, it's a Federal (a good mid-grade), not a B&S, Mitu, or Starrett but also not junk; and B) new ones this size are well over $200 from anybody, even Fowler (cheap, low-grade brand).

 So, I guess I'm willing for this to eventually become a $100 (to me) dial indicator, it would be worth investing that much to have one Big Bright Beautiful Bezel, I mean crystal heh, and a movement that is smooth with no hizzups, on a dial three inches across because my eyes need a clean-lube-adjust too.

 Oh, apparently this original Federal movement didn't win any awards, so Federal came out with a new one with real jewel bearings they called the Miracle Movement which was much, much better.  MM indicators cost more than $28 shipped you can be sure. ;)

PS: if you find yourself taking one of these apart, DON'T LOSE THE SCREWS.  You won't find exact replacements anywhere.  Period.  You might find close approximations from jewelers or watchmaker's or clockmaker supply houses.  Then again, you might not.  Don't lose them.  They are vanishingly small, Fillister-head, #0-60 or smaller, with pointed ends (but I think that one feature is just an aid to assembly, it's not necessary).

PPS: On the advice of The Cranky Old Men on Practical Machinist, I attacked the crystal with plastic polish and to my surprise, it removed some of the amber, as promised. Can't remove it to attack the other side without also taking off the pointer, which opens a can of worms. I'd rather leave that work to a professional worm wrangler.

 More as it happens.

more links on fixing dial indicators:
Nik Colyer - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoqvDueMn0E
Mr. Pete - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9gNrmxW_nU

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

I am waiting until June to spend the $35 - $50 a worm wrangler indicator repair shop wants to fix it up.

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~ 

>_> Never a Fremen around when you need one. <_<

Saturday, May 9, 2026

I am not as fastidious as I may at first appear

there is a dark side and a light side
 I need my shop time.

If I can’t do anything else (cough lathe borked cough), something always needs cleaning. "If you've got time to lean, you've got time to clean..."

I said once that I wasn't going to bother with cleaning the mill knee, because fluids are always going to be dripping down it, re-dirtying it. Eventually it occurred to me that it has fifty years of grime on it, AND that given my light use I would be unlikely to put that kind of grime back on it, ever, AND it would make me happy, a little, to look at it if it were clean. So I've changed course and I'm cleaning the knee. Cleaning is an easy path to feelings of satisfaction; it's harder to screw up than making chips, for one thing.



 However, cleaning the knee is being fiddly.  To be thorough, I really want to unmount that little 3-way manifold to clean under it.  But that little tube that comes out of the top and disappears inside the knee - that looks real hard to put back if it were to pull out of the fitting and vanish inside the knee.  The only access to that area is through the hole where the lift screw goes, and I'm not sure I can get my arm in there.  The only alternative is to take the mill apart.  By which I mean, remove the table from the saddle, then remove the saddle from the knee, and then remove the knee from the column. If you think that is going to happen in my lifetime, you are very much mistaken.

 So I'm gritting my teeth and cleaning around it.  But I want you to know that the unreachable grime is really bothering me. :)

 By the way, the best concoction I have found for cleaning greasy "varnish" from a painted surface is 50:50 Greased
Lightning™ & 99% isopropyl.  It's better than either by itself, and this varnish is HARD to get off.  Elbow grease is still required, and I use a blue kitchen sponge for a lot of it, which is soft enough not to scratch the enamel.  Also lots of shop towels.

 I'm sure acetone would attack the HELL out of that varnish, and it would try to take the factory paint off down to the metal too.  Mineral spirits / paint thinner might be safe on the paint, but I dislike the smell and it probably causes cancer or something.  I'm not so worried about the isopropyl fumes, tho I did have to open a window and start a fan because I was evaporating a lot of the stuff.

 After starting this job, I discovered a manifold (sounds biblical, don't it?) on the saddle which is leaking oil, for fark's sake.  It is another part of the one-shot oiling system.  It shouldn't be terrible; it's only nine small compression fittings... 18 things to be tightened... at a bad angle... with a 3/8in wrench if I can even get one in there.  Already tried the right size of tubing wrench, it was useless.

 I might have to enlist my better half to pump the pump while I watch the various manifolds for drips or clues.

 To be honest, the biggest leakage of oil is what drips out of the knee-to-column ways, and I cannot begrudge that; they're vertical, it's gonna happen, that's what the cat litter in the base is for.  I don't know what the weight distribution is between column ways and lift screw, but there is a lot of real estate to lubricate.  And besides, I've only gone through a gallon of way oil in a decade, and I use it for other things too: the lathe ways (obv) but also slow bearings like the fan bearings in one furnace and also the swamp cooler.  Spindle oil is also perfect in faster bearings like nonsealed motor bearings.

 Whee!  Speaking of needful tools, I also would like my mechanic's creeper to elevate up into the air like an ambulance stretcher. <_<  And I want a suitcase full of money, and a pony, and world peace...

 If only the mill's knee could be raised and lowered - wait πŸ˜‚

 Actually it might still be too high no matter what - I predict an unwelcome amount of bending to get the tightening done, and my back hurt when I woke up today.  Sheesh, what is this thing, a Harley?  After all, I always seem to be wrenching on it, and it always seems to leak oil... πŸ˜†

 (I jest, a little; machine tools are of necessity, oily.  A few drips are not wasteful in the grand scheme of things, but I'd rather not be constantly wiping them up from the shop floor.)

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

Friday, May 8, 2026

I have done a very foolish thing

I just wanted to measure TIR
 It doesn't look wrong; just a center in a lathe spindle. You can't see the problem unless you know how the lathe is positioned in the room.

 What I did, that I should not have done, was to insert the center in the normal way, ie; shove the thing in with a flick of the wrist.

 Now it's wedged in place - the way it would normally be if you were going to use it - but I can't get it out again.

 I can't get it out again because the lathe headstock is up against a wall, preventing me from shoving a rod down the spindle to knock out things mounted in the spindle taper, the way one normally does.

 I literally have to move the lathe before I can use it again.
Plot twist: I have no way to move the lathe at the moment.

 It might be possible to remove if I make a special tool; I can't think of a way to get it out otherwise, short of moving the lathe and doing it the normal way.  I was gonna move the thing eventually, because of this, but I wasn't ready.  Ye gods I am dumb!  One instant of forgetfulness leads to hours of headache.

EDIT, later: man, this is a huge cockup.  I can't get the 3-jaw on over the center at all, and the 4-jaw I have is kind of a PoS, although it looks like it would mount over the center.  Even if it did, the center poking up through the center bore of the chuck will certainly restrict its use.  Nothing long at all can be managed, and centering in my 4-jaw is actually worse / more impossible than in the 3-jaw because it's also a scroll, not independent-jaw. >_<

The center can't be removed with a shop-made tool because the manufacturers machined it into a cylinder between the center angle and the spindle taper, so there is nothing to pull on.  Very convenient.  Clamp friction alone isn't likely to pull it out of a Morse taper, I suspect the clamp would just slide, although there is plenty of room for a very beefy clamp indeed.  The entire center is as hard as a bad day.

 Speaking of bad days, my lathe is now unuseable and I need a day out of the house because I'm now in a fucking foul mood.

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

Monday, May 4, 2026

maybe polarizing contact lenses would help?

 I caught a deal on eBay and got this 3.25 / 85mm (.0001) dial indicator, cheap.  My other tenths indicator is dodgy, this one seems believable. 

 Big dial, big gradations, big pointer, big numbers, I figured it would be easier on this old gray duck's eyeballs. Well yes, but also no.

 You see, I can't hardly see through the crystal.  The yellowing is much darker in reality than it appears in this photo.  It also has brown cruft floating around between crystal and dial face, which seems to be old adhesive holding crystal into bezel.

A larger issue is it not returning to zero sometimes.  I'm investigating whether that is something I can fix or not.  The guts of these things resemble big watches, with a fine clockspring on the pointer, a fine coil spring on the plunger, and many fine gears between the two.  I am reluctant to stick my clumsy mitts in there.

 This thing entered the workforce when not only the tools smoked, all the workers and management did too.

 I'm going to investigate having a shop try to replace the crystal first because to DIY I'd have to:

• buy a small bench top arbor press
• fabricate delrin dies to turn it into a lens press
• find a way to carefully cut out a circle of acrylic for it
• find a way to fixture said disk to turn a tiny lip in the edge

 Ugh! Can I not, please?

 Even so, I'm mighty pleased to have her on board.  For now, I shall call her... "Amber".

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

generations

  While it's true that young people ought to listen to old people, because by and large, old people know more about life, the universe, and everything, than young people.  It's inevitable.  Listening to old people - preferably more than one, because opinions are a thing - can help smooth one's path through life.

 But it bugs the everlovin' crap outta me when old people won't listen to young people.  Where do you think fresh ideas come from? (mostly) Old people need young people to provide the occasional fresh take. And conversely, young people need old people so they can know when their fresh take, isn't.

 Suprahz, suprahz, suprahz, the generations need each other!

 Besides which, some people do most of their learning via back & forth conversation, others in a structured theory environment, still others learn best through their hands.  I can do all of those things, always could, because like many of my generation, we were given the tools to be autodidacts.  Now that kids are being hamstringed by doing hard time in Drill School, and thus finding it difficult to self-instruct later, it is more important than ever for us Old Farts™ to engage with the young ones who share our interests.

 Let No Craftsman-Nerds Be Left Behind.

 The other day, I found a small Buck pocket knife - an older one - which I long ago found rusting in the yard, and fixed up real nice - weeks of once-in-a-while effort.  It's nearly as good as new now, and you can shave with either blade.  Why?  I have no use for such a thing, I always have my Leatherman on me, and if I need more tool than that, it usually means I'm in my home or shop anyway. 

 The answer is this: once upon a time, there was a tradition among men and boys - well, those of us not born with silver spoons in our mouths - when a young man would receive his first knife, along with a lecture, from Dad, Granddad, or sometimes an Uncle.  This happened with me, even though I didn't have any of those male peers in my life.  I'm ashamed to say I don't know which friends or neighbor played standin.

 The knife was always a small two or three-bladed "gentleman's pocket knife" kind of thing.  No belt pouch.

 The lecture had to do with safety, mostly in handling, and also about behavior incumbent upon anyone carrying anything that might be dangerous.  Boy Scoouts of America had a whole structure for it - with good training and merit badges to supposedly prove "I Get It", and an utterly useless Victorinox knife at the end. :)

 All the major brands ran ads supporting this tradition aimed at the boys not just the adults!  So you saw "his first knife" ads, which might not even SAY that, but they would SHOW Granddad handing a knife to a kid, and the kid receiving it like it was mana from heaven - in both Boys Life (to build expectation, LOL) but also Outdoor Life and the like to get the adults onboard.  It was mentioned in literature.  It was a real social phenom the knife companies were capitalizing on, not a commercial creation.

 So now I've got this nice little presentation Buck knife which, depending on how old it is, is made of either nice steel or VERY nice steel.  Their logo is a hammer on a knife cutting a soft steel bolt, remember.  Not sure how to tell whether the scales are horn or nylon or what.  But see, I don't have kids nor have I an uncle role with any family.  We knew someone who wanted me to be a godfather but that was a special situation I had to say no to.  And it was never something I looked for, I am not parent material, so I mostly don't like kids until they're old enough to have an intelligent conversation with. ;)

 So the knife lurks in my tool chest, and whenever I see it, I wish I had someone, maybe not even a kid, just someone younger than me, someone who is where I was in my twenties, that I could mentor, to pass on what I have learned so far.  It's not so much wanting to pass along the knife itself, but rather doing what it represents.  I feel a debt toward my community for having who and what I have in my life, and I want those things for my fellow handicapped, broken, ubernerds who press on through life against all odds.  I want others to enjoy what privilege I enjoy, and I want them to feel it as I do.

  The word 'apprentice' is not appropriate here because one apprentices to a Master, not a Journeyman, and I am barely the latter, and not formally - I have  no formal schooling in anything.  I say I am a "journeyman" because while I don't always know the answers off the cuff as a Master might, I always know where to look to find them.  Usually in a book.  >_>

 Or maybe I'm just lonely.

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

Wednesday, April 29, 2026

"yeah, but imagine it without the knurling, how easy would it be to use then?"

  It doesn't matter how many tools you have, they won't be enough, ever.  New project?  New tool.  Might as well get used to it, or even make it a policy: don't start any new project, unless it requires you to buy a new tool.

 I get frustrated when what I want to make is a tool, because that tool is too expensive to buy and I am a broke-ass MF, and then it turns out I can't make the tool because I need another tool.

 It makes me want to set fire to things or put more knuckle-prints in the sheet metal of my storage cabinet.


~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

I just thought you'd enjoy this.

 This was listed as "India's Best Quality" right in the title.  I took one look at the photo and I lost it.

 My high school metal shop teacher would have granted this a 'B' grade, at most, and we weren't charging money for our work.

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

Tuesday, April 28, 2026

scriptor scripta scripsit scribae (googlatin)

 

L: Old & Busted
R: New Hotness

 The scriber I've had - and had a love-hate relationship with - for perhaps thirty years, finally got dropped enough times to chip the carbide in a way I could not dress out with a drill and a green wheel.  Foo.  My eight dollar tool!

(dramatic music builds)

 Then I attempted to buy a new one which would A) lack the features which bugged me about the old one, and B) would possess the desirable features the old one lacked.  And of course, I'd prefer it cost the same as the old one did... (j/k)

 My chief complaint about the old one was the magnet pressed into the dull end.  After that, I really didn't like the roughly 90ΒΊ point (ya rly) on the carbide, and the thickness (well, it's aluminum ferpetesakes) of the "replaceable" tip body, as they both obscured fine layout lines and made scale marking alignment tricky.  I suppose if I really think about it, the light weight aluminum body always felt a bit chintzy, but I'm not sure I ever thought of that angle until now.  And it would be nice if it had replaceable tips - especially if implemented better - but that's not a deal-breakler.

 It took a fair amount of poking around to get close to what I wanted, (and then settle).
I checked The Usual Suspects: McMaster, MSC, Amazon, eBay, etsy.

no magnet
mo pointy
heavier
X replaceable tip

And drumroll please! (noises off: sound of a drum kit falling down a flight of stairs)

It is literally two dollars cheaper than the one I bought for $8 & change when Clinton was president.

 The tip is interesting. At first I suspected the worst; that it was just a HSS point someone discolored to make a fake carbide tip appearance, but no, under a loupe it's the real deal; it scratches a Nicholson file, and OBTW that is one tiny braze joint.  I wondered they they didn't make the whole tip out of carbide, and side from increasing the cost, I realized this way is less likely to break.

 Steel body, gives it a nicer heft than the old one, but I may yet do something to make it more grippy, as the sides are smooth.  Maybe turn some notches in the apexes of the hex body, or just slide some thin wall silicone tubing I don't have over the handle.

 And that's about as much as anyone should write about one lowly scriber.

PS: I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TYDQ85W?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 I am NOT an Amazon affiliate, I get no kickbacks from them, any more than I do any other source: I wish!  Man, I don't even buy enough from McMaster in a year to get free shipping.  Who has a thousand dollars a year to spend on hobbies? Not this old gray duck!

 Opinion: buy some layout dye to use with your new scriber, srsly, and learn to use it* and why.

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~

_______________________
* I've been making assumptions about the skill level of my readers.  If you're just getting started in metalworking and you haven't got a mentor or a school, you might need instruction on how a scriber is used.  Since I can't find an article to link to that is any good, I'll have to write my own.  Coming soon but don't hold your breath. :)

Sunday, April 26, 2026

good craftsmanship / machining / tool-making YT channels

In no particular order:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__A2xtLF0AU

https://www.youtube.com/@MuseumofOurIndustrialHeritage

https://www.youtube.com/@InheritanceMachining

https://www.youtube.com/@makingmistakeswithgreg

https://www.youtube.com/@Clickspring

https://www.youtube.com/@timhunkin1

https://www.youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries

https://www.youtube.com/@Jer_Schmidt

https://www.youtube.com/@ROBRENZ

https://www.youtube.com/@C%C3%A0Lem

https://www.youtube.com/@Jeremy_Fielding

https://www.youtube.com/@ThePostApocalypticInventor

https://www.youtube.com/@AppliedScience

Lots of stuff to learn from each of these channels.

 Also, I appear to have dropped some accidentally from my Subscriptions, plus
I think there were some I watch but forgot to bookmark... so check back
tomorrow or so in case I've added more.

~≈{πŸ‘}≈~