Sunday, February 15, 2026

drat. (what I am up against)

 I am not giving you $18 for this hot garbage.  I wouldn't give you $10.  WTH.

your tool paths are shit, brah

 Imagine being so proud of your terrible workmanship that you put your name on the photo so nobody can steal your photo.  spoilers: Nobody was gonna steal your photo, dude.  And this seems to be most of what's available cheap.  Now I'm looking at sellers with much higher prices. 

 If I had a broaching kit I could maybe make my own although I really think it is or needs to be heat-treated a little, and I haven't got an oven. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

(the cracked one works fine but I want to replace it)

I am NOT 'polishing cannonballs'! I'm naawwt!

  When things slow down in the shop, usually because of money, I always end up finding something to do out there, usually in the morning with my coffee and news on the radio, so even if I only put in an hour every morning, I still feel as though I am "working in the shop".

 Lately, it has been polishing all the crank handles and their dials:

It is nice that one wrench fits almost everything on the mill

  So long as the handles are smooth so they won't abrade your skin in use, polishing these parts serves no useful purpose.  But against the permanently-filthy table, sadle, and knee, they stand out, and make it look nicer.  This is just for aesthetics.

 I cleaned the column and turret/ram, and the head, about as much as they can be cleaned, and they do look much better.  But there is no point in cleaning the table, saddle, or knee, because they are constantly bathed in cutting fluids.

Polishing the parts isn't too hard since I own a buffer with a bunch of wheels and different media.

 I did not use the buffer on the actual engraved dial surfaces, because I feared rounding the edges of the engraved numbers and lines.  For those surfaces, I laboriously hand-cleaned them with 0000 steel wool, carefully avoiding the already-too-smooth knurl on one edge, and that resulted in a very reasonable surface and shine, with no visible damage to the engraving.

 I don't actually use the dials on the table since I have a DRO, but I do need and use the dial on the knee lift.

 One very curious thing I discovered was what seemed an overly-complex mounting of the cranks to their shafts, with some springs, no key but a pin engaging a flange with a notch in it... and none of it is shown in the two old Bridgeport manuals I have been able to get my hands on.  The crank is apparently intended to "float" on a bronze bearing on the shaft, even after it's installed and the nut tightened (fully compressing the spring so WTF)  This is either weird shop mods, or I don't have the right manual for that year. (1972)

the three best mods I made to my drill press

1.  I put it next to the workbench, with plenty of room to swing the table (or head) around.  Not only can one lay long stock on the bench and drill it with the press, there is a vise on the bench...

2.  I bolted it down.  It ought to be nearly rigid and not wiggle, but there is inadequate material and tall webs in the base casting, which flexes some.  I have pondered how much "fun" it would be to fix this problem for many years, and I have done nothing because it looks like an immense PITA.  It's not broke...

3.  I swapped out the set screws which hold the head in place on the column for shop-made T-handle bolts, enabling casual moving of the head around.  But the head is heavy on the spindle side, so don't try this until you have done #2.

man that pink handle is ugly

 I've probably mentioned this before, but I just used it again this AM and was reminded how darn handy it is, so I was compelled to bring it up again.  Of course you can be forgiven for abusing this new feature as  I do, by keeping the head swung out of the way most of the time and using the table as yet another work surface... 😂

oh just FYI on the creeper wheels

 I added some thoughts about 3D printing some new wheels for the creeper's failing casters:
https://railgap.blogspot.com/2026/02/more-breakage-less-give-damn.html

Wednesday, February 11, 2026

more breakage, less give-a-damn

  I have a cheapo (Harbor Freight, from before I declared a moratorium on them) mechanics creeper.
It has only been used a few times since I'm not a mechanic, just someone who can't afford mechanics.
I figured the fabric cover would fail first and when it did, I would think about reuipholstering the pads or not.

 I got it out the other day to get under the shop bathroom sink to attack a fitting with a torch, the alternative being the cold tile/cement floor.  Fine.

 But the cheap PVC tires on the casters are starting to crack: 

 

More copies of the exact same wheel are readily available, but a set of six new real creeper casters with PU tires, with the right mounting stud, is north of $40.  I had a Craftsman creeper before this one.  I ran over it with a car because I'm a genius.  >_<

Apologies I haven't anything more interesting to show lately, I've been kinda stalled in the shop, just puttering around.  And the sink still needs fixing, blast it.  Feeling kinda old lately, sorry.

PS, from later: I'm thinking about printing wheels from something groovy like TPU.  I don't have any PU filament right now, but I might get some.  There is still some work to do to get the printer and my limited slicer skills to play well together, and the RĪ€ really needs a wired network connection, which I am also working on.  I have half a dozen network switches lying around, and I can't find any of the power supply wall-warts for them.  It's like that.  But the printer is printing again, and everything from here on is just gravy and optimization.  And the upgraded heater / hotend / heat break means I can now print the hotter filaments.  I think the hot end needs new fans, which is one upgrade I have not yet touched.  Le Sigh.  Thankfully they are cheap, and I understand airflow better than most of the duct designers (for these fans I mean) on ThingiVerse, but I'll put something together, and I doubt it will cost me more than $20 and possibly some filament.

not "wear and tear", this one was abuse

 To keep busy while broke and unable to push projects, I've been polishing the handles and their cranks, and parts of their dials, on the knee mill.

 In the process, I found this: 

well, shit.
 This is the clutch for the knee elevating crank handle.  I can get a new clutch with a new handle for $16 shipped off ebay or Aliexpress, although the metal on those cranks looks as thin as a prayer. 

 My handle is a little sloppy, but not in need of replacement and a new clutch will help tighten it up anyway.  So, not the end of the world. But when I first looked at it, I couldn't figure out how it got cracked. It goes inside a close-fitting part and over a close-fitting pin, it's very well supported, there's no way for a side-load to appear on it.

 Then I looked in the end with a bright light...

 Some ham-handed buffoon didn't line it up with the key and when it wouldn't go in, he forced it.  Probably used a hammer.

😭 O_O I don't... I, I, I can't even.  WHY?? 😱

 This is abuse of a very fine and expensive tool.  The crack made it a bit of a spring fit inside the bearing housing it goes into, but I was able to get it out with skinny 60 year old brute strength and no tools, wooden wedges, etc so I've got that going for me, which is nice.

 Obviously I can't let this go.  Hopefully I can find a replacement that is cheap and also machined from billet, not some HIP / powdered metal BS.  Mostly what I'm finding so far is handles with the clutch are cheaper than buying a clutch alone.  WTH.  Of course.

New plan: buy the package, sell the handle, now the part is "free" minus my time.  *sigh*


Sunday, February 8, 2026

the secret of steel

 Is no longer at my neighborhood Ace Hardware.  The store is a train-wreck, always, and they haven't restocked the steel rack in a couple of years, real talk.  I could go to other stores, but I was getting a good discount at the old one.  I can't afford full retail prices.  All good things must come to an end. 

 I need just a couple of piece 3ft - 4ft long before I can get started on the outriggers for the hoist cart, but I will probably end up with 8 ft or so, from McMaster, we'll see.  For the weight, McMaster's prices are not terrible, last I checked.  The scrap yard is cheaper, but I am still having a lot of pain and I don't feel up to the trip out there.  Heck, I've bought small pieces of steel off of eBay when I found the right price and free shipping.

 We'll see, but I'm done shopping at my old store. The manager seems to think it's okay to treat me like shit compared to stranger customers, just because he knows who I am.  Familiarit breed contempt, apparently.

Thursday, February 5, 2026

welding nuts inside long tubing

Jer Schmidt has a good dodge for this problem:


Thursday, January 29, 2026

"my struggle" by the not-so-great dictator, Charlie Foxtrot

 Body issues improving slowly.  Still not up to full strength or speed.  I have tasks waiting for me to be less hurty, less stony, less shaky.  The work is even laid out.  In the shop bathroom, my mechanic's creeper waits for me to get down on my back and hold a plumber's torch above my (shielded) face.  Like that.

-={O}=-

 There's a trip to a friend's house I need to make, both to see my old and dear friend of course, but also to take advantage of him yet again, in that he has lead shot which is surplus to his needs, and I have a need for lead shot. (the hoist cart main counterweight)  Unfortunately, one car needs to go to a shop (or I need to buy Yet Another Code Reader for it - heyrockythistimeforsure), while the other car has failing front CV joints and half-axles so we're reluctant to take long trips in it, where "long trip" = anything longer than a trip to the doctor's office across town.  My friend is an hour's drive away by freeway.

-={O}=-

 There is steel I need to buy, from the hardware store, for the hoisting cart's outriggers, but that might have to wait until February because cash flow is a thing.

-={O}=-

 Three things dramatically affect my cognitive ability as an Old Fart, including things like my ability to design things in my head:

• hydration
• exercise
• level of depression

 To the extent I can manage those three things, I get to have a life.

 I like to say my head is like an Italian sportscar; capable of high performance when everything is just right, but is a very high maintenance machine. ;/

-={O}=-

 I've been having to trap mice in the garage which is bugging me because I don't like vermin unless it is Vermin Supreme.  I guess their population is up this year.  Can I borrow someone's chickens?  Or rat terrier?

 -={O}=-

 For a lark, designing a suppressor for a cannon chambered in 38mm L&L*.  So far the basic likely dimensions are on the order of 6in x 24in.  Probably longer because the initial expansion space is not big enough.  It's a big damned can, and yet probably not big enough.

 As for the guts, Hiram Maxim knew what he was about, honest tests prove it.  And I tell you this for free, I will never design or purchase a can with a monocore.  And oh mama this is a lot of gas to deal with, and you've got to give it somewhere to go, and if it fills up and then pressurizes that 'somewhere', it won't be a quiet can. 

 The next problem is the ginormous hole (call it 40mm) down the middle of a 38mm can.  It seems to me that doing the various tasks of suppression† will all have to be done before the bullet leaves the can, because once it is no longer obstructing gas flow, it will be very hard to divert gases from the center of the bore into our radial or other chambers.  The first solution suggested for this is always asymmetrical baffles, which try to use some of the gases to redirect other parts, and baffles which allow gas flow to go around the bullet in order to "push back at" the remainder of the existing gases. 

 Both of these schemes cause bullet deflection and are thus no bueno.  I don't even like wipes for the same reason, despite that they are perfect problem-solvers for managing gas flow and preventing precursor noise.  They Fing touch the bullet.  Nope, nope, nope.

 Hiram Maxim called it: The best you can hope for is to peel off the outer layer of the gas flow a bit at a time until there is hardly anything left, but this takes time and distance.  An example is the deathly quiet MAC / Sionics design fielded in Vietnam for the M-16.  Very long and narrow, with some variation in the baffle design inside (the semi-useless spirals were Mitch Werbell's misunderstanding of how British spiral baffles worked)  I don't think I want to build a can as long as the barrel, LOL.

-={O}=-

 I am still seeking distractions and diversions in all directions with only a little luck, not dealing with my bro's death.

_______________________________________________
* I just made up that chamber, but the initials are of the two designers / perpetrators' last names
† 1. make leading edge of impulse much less sharp, 2. reduce peak impulse amplitude, 3. release stored gases slowly