It's easy: pick any lock that took either The Lock Picking Lawyer, or Bosnian Bill, more than two or three minutes to pick... and which is physically sufficient to the realistic risk factor*.
It doesn't matter if they picked it. Given enough time, these guys can pick most locks which are excellent locks. But if it takes either of those guys more than two minutes, it's a good lock, from the pick resistance point of view. And time is never on a thieve's side - they prefer quick and easy targets.
Now take a step back and realize that most crooks - be they cat-burglars or bicycle thieves or lawnmower-shed-raiders... do not pick locks. They attack padlocks with shackle-popper attacks of various kinds, they attack the mounting with a heavy hammer, or they cut the shackle or the lock body or the hasp with a cordless angle grinder and an abrasive cutoff wheel (which cuts metal like butter) or in the case of unshielded, smaller shackles, a big pair of bolt cutters.
Deadbolts are attacked by using two large crow bars to pry the doorframe out of shape, completely ignoring your $200 Miwa or Ultra 700 or whatever fancy deadbolt you installed. D'oh!
Crooks ain't got time to work at it - if it starts to seem like work, they will lose interest. Ergo, no learning of lock-picking skills, no finesse, no Hollywood attacks, 99% of the time.
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*a padlock for your lawnmower, inside your already-locked garage, is at
much lower risk than a bicycle left chained to a pole downtown overnight
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