Wednesday, December 17, 2025

now let's talk about print quality... *sigh* the number one bugaboo of 3D printing

 "PRINT QUALITY"?? 
Hey isn't that where we left off eighteen months ago? 
(yeah, pretty much, before the upgrades and modifications, the extended cable
drama, the broken camera ribbon cable socket, the camera noise problem,
printer firmware updoot, controller updoot...)

Ahem.  Finally we return to working on the printer's actual purpose, printing.  I was pretty proud of the big owl I printed a year or two ago until I noticed the overhang problems.  Granted, printing overhangs without a support is a recipe for trouble, and I was using a comparitively primitive Cura Utilimaker to slice then.  I am now using PrusaSlicer, and if I do it again, there will be a mess of supports, probably.  The whole breast of the owl?  Couldn't we uh, just make it print overhangs somehow?  Mostly no, AFAIK, but a lot has happened in the last eighteen months, and gho knows what new cleverness has been released since then.

 Amusingly, as soon as I loaded good old Benchy into Prusa, it complained about the model, saying it might not be stable, there might not be sufficient bed adhesion, I should consider supports and a brim. 

Well, Benchy isn't supposed to be easy to print beautifully, it is supposed to be hard to print beautifully.  That's why and how it is a benchmark.  I also use CHEPs cube and anything else someone can show has merit.  The thing about Benchy is that everyone uses it and there's a lot of information about it, charts featuring it, etc.  Great for the beginner like me.

 But as for the low bed adhesion warning (which it bases on the base minimum with vs. the model's maximumn height) well, I could be a spokesmodel (can you see me in a bikini? Egad, best not.) for that Layerneer bed glue.

 I think it is an Amazon stealth brand, TBH.  Got bed adhesion problems?  Stop!   Before you start messing with rafts, brims, and supports, and assuming you have a sane bed temperature profile, try somebody's layer adhesion adhesive.

 I only have experience with this Layerneer stuff, which came to me as part of an Amazon starter package (I swear to Ghu, it was the exact thing I needed, in that moment).  Maybe I'd use it up faster if I printed more (I took more than a year off, whaddya want)  Since I began using it, I've only had a model break loose once, and that was because it was a max-volum model with many supports, and when the bed was allowed to cool off as "normal", the model broke loose.  A solution I haven't tried yet (because the print quality was ass too) is to leave the bed hot for the whole print.

 Here's a test print I did with a small kodama ornament, you can see it's got serious issues:



 Some of those issues I suspect of being caused by wet filament tho, and I don't have a solution for that yet.

 The first layer, in fact, all the layers look a little bit high, and should be smooshed flat against the bed just a little more.  Okay, layer height needs to be tweaked in the slicer.  I'll worry about that when I'm satisfied with the bed leveling, which is taking me some time because I am being anal about it, and because there is no screw in the center of the bed and there needs to be one.

 And an afterthought: I've got some soft PLA I haven't tried.  It's yuge, as in 1.75mm and I haven't any nozzles that big.  The fancy splitter nozzles for this application look like a good idea for such large filament... but I'm not feeling generous right now.  In fact, I'm thinking of drilling out a spare nozzle and trying it... getting the nozzle smooth might be tricky.  Not sure how I'd drill it given the lathe is currently in pieces.

1 comment:

MiCTLaN said...

I'm still running a Prusa i3 MK3 with the stock print sheet and I've found the very best thing I can do for bed adhesion is to just wipe the bed with 91% isopropyl while the bed is heating up for the print. We're in slightly different climates though.